Cancun

Luxury is the buzzword in the new Cancún, completely reborn after Hurricane Wilma decimated the tourism zone in October 2005. The storm toppled high-rise hotels along the waterfront and wiped out Cancún's famed white sand beaches. But it didn't take long for Mexico's most lucrative destination to recover. Sand was pumped back to shore from the sea floor and the beaches are back (though not as white and soft as before). Hotels and restaurants reappeared with more modern amenities and décor, emphasising sophistication over tequila-fuelled revelry. The Girls Gone Wild scene has been toned down a bit and wealthy travellers are discovering a classier Cancún. There are still plenty of all-inclusive hotels catering to families and singles seeking an inexpensive seaside holiday. But Cancún has a new style and attitude worth exploring.

College students and youthful partiers still flock to Cancún for Spring Break, which runs through March and April. Holidaying families and couples are more than welcome year round, along with the revellers drawn by cheap drink and plenty of rowdy bars and clubs. In the winter season Cancún attracts Northerners escaping the cold, while Mexican families tend to congregate during holiday seasons and in the summer months.

Cancún is on the northeast shores of Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula in the state of Quintana Roo. Its hotel zone is 10km (6 miles) northeast of the airport. Downtown Cancún is 16km (9 miles) northeast of the airport.

Overlooking the Caribbean Sea, Cancún's hotel zone is a narrow, flat strip of asphalt and sand between the coastline and mangrove lagoons.

Much of Cancún's famed white beach was wiped out by Hurricane Wilma in October 2005. The sand was replenished but isn't as soft and dazzling white as in the past. The water is calmest on the northern stretch of beach while waves pound the south shores. Holidaymakers can hire wave runners, kayaks, and inflatables to play in the sea and lagoons.

Isla Mujeres is a short ferry ride east of Cancún and offers a simple downtown area with folk art shops and ethnic cafes, good snorkelling and the opportunity to swim with dolphins at Garrafón National Park (Carretera Garrafón Km 6). Snorkelling tours and booze cruises from Cancún's marinas are very popular, as are waverunner and kayak tours of the lagoons.

Cancún is an excellent family destination with long stretches of calm water, lifeguards at most beaches and organised children's activities at many hotels. Several franchise restaurants and take out eateries cater to children's finicky taste buds. The dolphins, sharks and tanks filled with tropical fish at the Interactive Aquarium at La Isla (Boulevard Kukulcán Km 12.5) (website: www.interactivedolphins.com) with are great fun.

Shopping malls offering similar souvenirs, sportswear and brand-name shops line the hotel zone. Luxury Avenue (Boulevard Kukulcán Km 13) specialises in the high-end jewellery and designer clothing. La Isla (Boulevard Kukulcán Km 12.5) has gondola rides in canals flowing around clusters of shops and restaurants. In downtown, Mercado 28 (Avenida Yaxchilán at Avenida Sunyaxchen) is an open-air market crammed with stalls and shops displaying souvenir-quality jewellery, pottery and handicrafts; the market's seafood cafes are popular lunchtime haunts for local office workers. Supermarkets have the best prices on alcohol, cigarettes and Mexican coffee and vanilla.

Cancún's nightlife scene revolves around enormous dance clubs churning out cheap drinks and flashy entertainment into the wee hours. Several popular spots including Coco Bongo, The City, and Señor Frog's are located at or near Forum by the Sea (Boulevard Kukulcán Km 9). Sophisticates prefer the hip scene at the Maxim (Boulevard Kukulcán Km 12) and the Lobby Bar at the Ritz-Carlton (Boulevard Kukulkán Km 14).

Franchise restaurants abound, but there are also Thai, Italian, Argentinean, and Japanese restaurants with slick décor and excellent cuisine. Prices are high in the hotel zone. Find bargains and authentic Mexican fare at taco stands downtown. For down-home Mexican meals accompanied by mariachis don't miss the weekend afternoon-long buffet lunch at La Parilla (Avenida Yaxchilán 51) near Parque Palapa.

Cancún's busy Boulevard Kukulcán runs 22.5km (14 miles) through the hotel zone and into downtown. It's not an attractive pedestrian area. Well-marked public buses run the length of the boulevard into downtown, and they are your best bet to get around Cancún. Taxis are abundant and expensive. Hire cars are a hassle within Cancún, as traffic jams are common and the police quick to fine offenders.

The coastline between Cancún and Tulum, dubbed the Riviera Maya, is packed with gorgeous coves and beaches, action-packed theme parks, archaeological sites and opportunities for adventure. Xcaret (Carretera 307), 72km (44 miles) south of Cancún, is an ecological theme park that's like a microcosm of all things Mexican. The top-notch nightly folkloric dance show is a must-see.

Begin your special night out with sunset cocktails overlooking the lagoon at Thai Lounge (Boulevard Kukulcán Km 12.5). The sky and water panorama is better here than from the east-facing beaches in front of the hotels. Move on to Puerto Madero (Boulevard Kukulkán Km 9) for a leisurely Argentine beef and wine feast among Cancún's high-energy sophisticates; indoor tables are best for people watching. The local crowd moves on to the terrace above the lagoon at Bling (Boulevard Kukulcán Km 13.5) for the latest DJ driven rhythms.

Cancún International Airport (CUN)