Playa del Carmen

Bustling Playa del Carmen (simply Playa for everyone) has long attracted an international mix of young independent travellers, many of whom stick around to open restaurants, clubs and hotels. At times, Italian seems more common than Spanish and shops display an overabundance of trinkets and clothing from various Asian hot spots. But beneath the polyglot, Playa is an overgrown Mexican city with residents from throughout the country. It's the commercial and residential headquarters for the Riviera Maya, the fastest growing destination in Mexico.

The young travellers who've long been Playa's biggest fans have grown more sophisticated and now find chic boutique hotels and hip clubs. The international mix remains strong, with trendsetters from Mexico City, Europe and North America mingling on Avenida Quinta. Families and tour groups fill all-inclusive hotels on the beaches north and south of town.

Playa del Carmen is 68km (42 miles) south of Cancún on the Caribbean coast on the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico.

The city spans both sides traffic-clogged Carretera 307, with the main tourism services close to the coastline. Avenida Quinta, a couple of blocks inland from the waterfront, is the heart of the tourist zone. Playacar, a master planned resort community with a golf course, residential neighbourhoods and several all-inclusive resorts, is located just south of the ferry pier.

Playa del Carmen's long, wide town beach was nearly wiped out by construction of a long seawall at a huge all-inclusive resort to the north. The most popular beaches are to the north off Calle 30. Several beach clubs with lounge chairs, umbrellas, beach beds and restaurants are located in this area, and water toys are readily available for hire.

In some ways the beach is secondary here. The real action takes place around Avenida Quinta's eclectic shops, restaurants and bars. Scuba diving and snorkelling tours to nearby cenotes (freshwater sinkholes) are very popular - the water's cool and clear and some cenotes are part of larger cave systems with fascinating stalactites and stalagmites.

Kids find plenty of distractions in Playa, thought he Avenida Quinta scene is far more interesting for adults. Xcaret (Carretera 307, 80km/50 miles south of Cancún) is a giant eco park with more than enough attractions for a full-day excursion. Don't miss the superb nightly folkloric dance show. Nearby cenotes and the astonishing caves at Aktun Chen (Carretera 307 Km 107) are wildly popular.

Playa del Carmen has the best shopping scene in the Mexican Caribbean, with enough variety to threaten any budget. Avenida Quinta, Calle Corazón, and nearby side streets have the best array of shops. Look for Mexican amber jewellery, fanciful woodcarvings from Oaxaca, textiles from Chiapas and Guatemala, and full-on Frida mania with the artist's famous face on everything from handbags to magnets. The open-air Paseo del Carmen Mall (Calle 1 between Avenidas 5 and 10) is packed with brand-name sportswear and jewelry shops and franchise restaurants.

It would take a week of nights to fully explore Playa's restaurant and club scene, and most times you needn't wear more than shorts or a simple sundress. For a classier evening check out the second-floor dining room the Swiss-owned Casa del Agua (Avenida 5 at Calle 2 Norte). After dinner, stop by Diablito Cha-Cha-Cha (Calle 12 near Avenida 5) for mojitos, then move on to Negro Sal (Avenida 1 at Calle 16) for dancing with the stylish Mexico City crowd.

Dining in Playa is an utter delight, with such varied choices decisions can be staggering. You must try the authentic Yucatecan cuisine at Yaxche (Calle 8 between Avenidas 5 and 10). After that you have your pick of sushi, ceviche, pastas galore, and Brazilian and Argentinian beef houses. Prices are as varied as the cuisines; stick to the back streets away from Avenida 5 for inexpensive local eateries and taco stands.

Driving in Playa del Carmen is a nightmare - avoid it at all costs. The city has grown far faster than the infrastructure, and vehicular transport can be frustratingly slow. Taxis are easy to find. Triciclos (three-wheel bicycles with front passenger seats) can be the fastest way to get around. Hired cars are easiest for exploring the Riviera Maya, and public bus service to points outside Playa is excellent. Ferries to Cozumel depart from the pier at the south side of the pedestrian area.

The Maya temples at Tulum (Carretera 307, 130km/81 miles south of Cancún) have been nearly loved to death and are best viewed in early morning before crowds cram the pathways and the tiny beach beneath El Castillo. Only one-third of the archaeological site of Cobá (about 48km/30 miles northwest of Tulum on an unnamed road) has been uncovered and jungle surrounds several groupings of temples and pyramids. Visits to Maya communities can be arranged through Alltournative (Avenida 38N between Avenidas 1 and 5).

The Riviera Maya region around Playa del Carmen has some of the most luxurious and healthful spas in the country, along with yoga camps and holistic retreats. Some of the best facilities are located in small hotels and are available to guests only. But one of the finest day spas is right in Playa at Spa Itzá (Calle Corazón between Avenidas 5 and 10) (website: www.spaitza.com). Try the soothing Mayan baths and treatment using local herbs and clays. For invigorating yoga classes on the beach or a full-scale yoga retreat vacation, contact Yoga by the Sea (Calle 8 at the beach).

Cancun International Airport (CUN)