Naples

Naples is southwest Florida's version of ritzy Palm Beach, home to some of America's wealthiest families. When the first line of beach homes were built along Naples' Gulf coast in the 1880s they were called Millionaires' Row for good reason. The super rich still permeate Naples society, although you might not suspect it from the city's casual, relaxed, small-town atmosphere. Wealth is not flaunted here, but its pervasive presence is apparent from the Jaguars and Ferraris parked in front of the elegant stores and the unusually large number of distinguished-looking residents with deep tans that could have only come from a golf course. Naples, in fact, has more than 90 courses and ranks as No. 1 in the nation with the number of golf holes per capita. Although many are private, some accept day guests, especially during the slow season between April and December; so much for class distinction. Finally, Naples is not typically thought of as a beach community but 16km- (10 mile-) long Naples Beach ranks consistently among America's top 10 or 15 strands. Vacationing here can be as affordable or as expensive as you wish, with choices ranging from the Ritz-Carlton to moderately priced chain motels. The window shopping and people watching, however, are priceless.

Most tourists during the April to mid-December off season are Florida residents soaking up the sun, visiting the expensive shops and sampling the finer restaurants when no advance reservations are needed. Naples is also becoming increasingly popular with young couples and spring honeymooners in search of an uncommon destination. Around the Christmas holidays and extending to Easter, as many as 250 active and retired Fortune 500 CEOs and other business elites move into their winter residences.

Located in Collier County on the Gulf of Mexico, Naples is 67.5km (42 miles) south of Fort Myers, 171km (106 miles) due west of Miami and 298km (185 miles) south of Tampa. The closest airport handling international flights is Southwest Florida International Airport at Fort Myers: the transfer takes about 60 minutes.

Naturally, the most expensive resorts border the Gulf of Mexico. Just a few blocks inland you'll find several older but well located hotels in the charming area known as Olde Naples dating back to 1886 and the Victorian era. The less expensive chain motels line the major roadways.

The nice thing about 16km- (10 mile-) long Naples Beach is that it's mostly bordered by older homes instead of high-rise hotels, which offers a pleasant feeling of privacy. Despite so many mansions fronting the Gulf, the entire beach is open to public access if you can find a place to park. If the metered lot at the city's landmark fishing pier is full, cruise the streets paralleling the beach for other designated spaces. Or simply drive a few kilometres north to Delnor-Wiggins Pass State Park with its 1.6km- (1 mile-) long sandy strand. This gorgeous white sand beach is ranked one of the nation's best, so in winter the park occasionally has to shut its gates once it reaches capacity. To ensure a spot, come early, bring a picnic and spend the day.

Situated at the fringe of the Everglades, Naples is the closest city to the internationally recognised Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary (375 Sanctuary Road West ) (website: www.corkscrew.audubon.org) operated by the National Audubon Society. Its 3.6km (2.2 miles) raised boardwalk penetrates several rich environments including a cypress swamp hosting one of the nation's largest colonies of nesting wood storks. The sanctuary hours vary seasonally with no one allowed on the boardwalk after dark so the birds are not disturbed.

With the Everglades wilderness within easy reach, it may seem strange to suggest visiting the Naples Zoo at Caribbean Gardens (1590 Goodlette-Frank Road) (website: www.napleszoo.com). This nationally accredited landmark, opened in 1919, houses more rare exotic cats (such as Indonesian tigers) than any other Florida zoo. Children can even handle some of the less dangerous animals and reptiles in the ‘Scales & Tails' area, then ride by boat through a jungle area with live animals from many continents in a natural setting, unlike the robotic creatures at Disney World.

Naples has not one but two major downtown shopping districts conveniently located close together. The best known is Third Avenue South, a pricey two-block stretch the chamber of commerce has mapped with store locations in a free brochure. The nearby Fifth Avenue South shopping district is several blocks longer but slightly less elegant due to the random mix of business offices among the antique and boutique stores. You may not be able to afford (or even want) what is for sale, but it's always enjoyable to see what is considered fashionable and trendy... and sometimes wonder why.

Authentic culture in a Florida beach town? Yes, the Philharmonic Center for the Performing Arts has a variety of offerings year-round including ballets, Broadway plays and family-themed shows. If you just want to chill out, treat yourself to a drink at one of the famous hotels, settled comfortably inside or at their beachside bar.

The region called Olde Naples contains the most sophisticated dining, although you will also find scattered moderately priced restaurants. Don't decide ahead of time but select from the posted menus as you stroll the sidewalks. Fresh seafood is the norm everywhere but beyond that you‘ll face the pleasant challenge of choosing from such varied fare as Continental, Mediterranean, Polynesian, Caribbean and the current cuisine du jour.

Because of its compact nature, Naples is a wonderful walking city with many stores and restaurants clustered together. In addition, the Naples Trolley Tours runs a scheduled service with 20 destinations during daylight hours while the Collier Area Transit (CAT) operates buses daily from 0600 to 1930. Hiring a car is necessary for travel outside Naples and certainly for late night events since the buses stop so early.

Naples is within easy driving distance of Fort Myers and its famous offshore barrier islands, Sanibel and Captiva. On Sanibel Island, the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge offers bird watching rivalling that of the Everglades National Park, located much farther to the east. It's an easy day trip 24km (15 miles) to Marco Island for a swim at spectacular Tigertail Beach Park. If you really want to experience Florida's outdoors, hike the 10.5km (6.5-mile) nature trail at Seminole-Collier State Park, even rough it overnight at the primitive campsite lacking water and other facilities. The park is 27km (17 miles) south of Naples.

The Sunset Beach Bar at the Naples Beach Hotel & Golf Club (851 Gulf Shore Boulevard North ) (website: www.naplesbeachhotel.com) in Olde Naples, a longtime favorite of locals, was named Naples' ‘Best Beach Bar' by the Travel Channel. Expect it to be packed at sunset, then stick around for the live music.

Fort Myers: Southwest Florida International Airport (RSW)