Pinney's Beach

Picture perfect is how visitors refer to Pinney's Beach. The rarely crowded shore, with its soft, powdery, white sand and calm waters, caught the eye of tropical vacationers after Four Seasons built a luxury resort there. Pinney's is on the quiet island of Nevis. Because of the high quality sugar once produced there, the isle was known as the Queen of the Caribbees. Sugar mill ruins still dot the island's undulating landscape as does a pristine wilderness that green vervet monkeys, orchids and shimmering butterflies call home.

Certainly not party animals. It is for travellers who like to chill and escape the cold climes as well as honeymooners and those who prefer small quaint inns and lazing in hammocks to huge, glitzy megahotels and casinos. Nevis attracts mainly couples and sometimes families, mostly well off Americans, Canadians and Brits.

Pinney's Beach is on the northwestern side of the island of Nevis, West Indies 322km (200 miles) south of Puerto Rico. It is off the Main Road just north of Charleston and about 8km (5 miles) southwest of the airport. Overlooking the Caribbean, the beach backs up to a grove of palm trees and a tropical lagoon.

On a sunny day, the 6.5km (4-mile) stretch of golden sand is the ideal place to catch rays, walk along the water or stop for some refreshment at the Four Seasons Resort, the beach pavilion of the Golden Rock Plantation Inn or one of the several casual beach bars on its shoreline. After a rain Pinney's is still beautiful but the water sometimes become murky and full of kelp.

Enjoy the scenery. In the shadow of Mount Nevis sits the botanical gardens, Montpelier Estate, a pot pourri of lagoons, waterfalls, birds, rose gardens and greenery. Take a hike or a horseback ride to explore the mountainous rainforests, historic ruins and abandoned sugar plantations. Play a round of golf. Nevis has three sets of links, the Four Seasons' 18-hole Robert Trent II, a two-hole and a 12-hole course. Stroll through Charlestown. It won't take long. The town is tiny, but Alexander Hamilton's birthplace, now the site of the Museum of Nevis History is there. Just outside of Charlestown is the Nelson Museum. It has a fine collection of the admiral's memorabilia. It was during his tour of duty on Nevis that Lord Horatio Nelson met his wife, Frances Nesbet.

Though Four Seasons has a children's club, this is a place for families to have quality time together. Tots, teens and parents can lounge on the beach, snorkel or take a break from the sand and go hiking.

Shoppaholics forget about that spree. It is not going to happen here. Nevis is just not known for its shopping. Even though islanders will tell you that the island is known for its honey, it is sometimes tough to find. What you will find are hand-embroidered clothing, colourful postage stamps, batik and a few art galleries.

Except for a couple of beach bars, entertainment in Nevis is low key. A night on the town is pretty tame, mostly live music tied to a themed dinner at a hotel. During the season, steel or string bands or a local calypso singer perform at various venues. Posters pasted to doorways announce ‘jump ups' (informal street parties). Probably the most happening place is the Wednesday West Indian happy hour at Eddy's Bar & Restaurant (Main Street, Memorial Square, Charlestown). Dancing and karaoke goes on into the night.

Dining ranges from grilled lobster at romantic, restored plantation houses to West Indian cuisine like goat stew. Meals are complemented with local in-season fruits and vegetables. A singular experience is dinner at Miss June's Cuisine, Jones Bay. It is dinner and drinks in her home, where she treats each diner as a special guest to which such notables as Oprah Winfrey and novelist John Grisham can attest.

The Main Road circles the island and runs parallel to Pinney's Beach along the eastern (Leeward) shore. You turn off the Main Road to drive down Pinney's Beach Road to get to the beach, Sunshine's, Four Seasons, and so on. Privately owned mini-buses with names like Postman, Energizer and Marlon Brando across their windshields serve as the island's public transportation. Stand on the side of the road in the direction you are heading and just flag them down. Car hire is also available.

Take the ferry across the narrows and discover St Kitt's, Nevis' sister island. It is just 3 km (2 miles) away, but quite different as is evidenced by the mega Marriott Resort and the cruise ship pier. Trinkets and treasures can be found in the palm-shaded capital, Basseterre at Circus, patterned after London's Piccadilly Circus. Brimstone Hill, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the fortress where the18th-century battles between the British and French took place. The somewhat restored Romney Manor, which is said to have once been owned by Thomas Jefferson, is certainly worth a look.

Pinney's Beach bars are known for fun and decadent drinks. Double Deuce (very close to Pinney's Beach Hotel) has its Double Deuce Stinger Punch accompanied by Thursday night karaoke while Sunshine's Beach Bar & Grill has its Killer Bee and Sunday night beach parties. Anyone who sips more than one of these potent concoctions is likely to find himself the life of the party or passed out on the beach. Or try Mango at Four Seasons, which has live music.

Nevis International Airport (NEV)