Nice

With its fantastic natural setting, a lively old town, art galleries and museums galore, numerous festivals (including its world famous carnival) and year-round sunshine, Nice's appeal is obvious. Yes, traffic can be a nightmare (this is after all a big city, France's fifth largest in fact), and the tourist hordes can get too much in summer, but this is the price to pay for what is one of the most popular spots on the Côte D'Azur. Whether you are wandering through the narrow streets of Vieux Nice or taking a stroll on the famous promenade des Anglais, Nice's rich architectural and cultural heritage is a delight, and although the city's glory might be a bit faded, it is still a vibrant place and one well worth exploring.

Not as exclusive as it once was, Nice today draws a mixed crowd, from backpackers to older couples on a cruise excursion (Nice is the top cruising port in France) and families using the city as a convenient base to explore the rest of the Côte D'Azur. The city, which was once particularly popular with the British and Russians, is today a fashionable holiday centre attracting Europeans, Asians and Americans.

Nice lies in the south of France on the famous French Riviera. To the west are the resorts of Antibes and Cannes, while Monte Carlo and Menton lie to the east.

Nice lies right on the Mediterranean Sea, between Antibes to the west and Monte Carlo to the east. Nice Côte D'Azur (NCE) is the nearest airport.

Nice has no sandy beach, only pebbly beaches. There are 8km (5 miles) of beaches lining the Baie des Anges, including some 15 private beaches (along the promenade des Anglais and the quai des Etats-Unis) with sunbeds, umbrellas, cabins and showers, and 23 public beaches. A good range of watersports is available, including jet-skiing, windsurfing, water-skiing, sailing and paragliding.

No visit to Nice would be complete without taking a stroll on the famed promenade des Anglais, the boulevard running along the waterfront. Start here and admire the belle époque hotels that line this avenue, then go explore the Vieux Nice (the old town) with its atmospheric narrow streets, quaint cafés, several baroque churches, and yet more belle époque buildings. Nice also boasts some excellent museums, among them the Musée Matisse (164 avenue des Arènes de Cimiez), the Musée d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain (promenade des Arts), the Musée Chagall (avenue Docteur Ménard) and the Musée des Beaux-Arts (33 avenue des Baumettes); art galleries like the Galerie des Ponchettes (77 quai des Etats Unis); and several parks, the best of which are the Parc du Château (rue de Foresta/montée Monfort) and Jardin Albert 1er (Place Massena).

The promenade des Anglais is a good spot for taking a stroll with the family, rollerblading or even kite flying before or after a day on the beach. The Parc Floral Phoenix (405 promenade des Anglais) is the largest greenhouse in Europe. It offers a fantastic discovery area for young and old. The Parc du Château (see Beyond the Beach above) is a big park with sparkling views of the city, a waterfall, café and a sizable playground.

Luxury boutiques selling big international brands can be found on rue Paradis and rue de Suède, as well as around place Masséna. More mainstream chain outlets like the famous Galeries Lafayette and the Nice Etoile dot avenue Jean Médecin. All sorts of shops can also be found on the avenue de la République. For antiques, head for the harbour and the rue Ségurane. The old town is home to 600 shops and art galleries. A lively market takes place daily on cours Saleya, selling fresh flowers, fruit and vegetables. In summer, an arts and crafts market takes over in the evening. Typical souvenirs include olives and olive oil, local wines and candied fruit.

There is something for everyone in Nice. From the bars and cafés on cours Saleya, patronised mainly by locals, through to glitzy nightclubs along the waterfront where the rich and beautiful descend to see and be seen. Casa del Sol (12 Cité du Parc, promenade des Anglais), with its Latino sounds, is a popular venue. Other good addresses are Le Before (18 rue du Congrès) and La Villa 14 (10 avenue Félix Faure). If you are feeling lucky, try the Casino Ruhl (1 promenade des Anglais), which has 300 slot machines.

There are restaurants for all tastes and budgets in Nice. Good value, unpretentious restaurants can be found in the old town, whereas prices are steeper on the waterfront. Local specialities include pissaladière (the local take on pizza with onions, black olives and anchovies), socca (a kind of big chickpea pancake), pan bagna (a tuna and vegetable sandwich) and of course the famous salade Niçoise (egg, anchovy and tuna salad).

Nice's old town and the waterfront area can easily be explored on foot. A comprehensive bus network serves the city, and there are plans afoot for a tram system (the first part of which is scheduled for completion in September 2007). The SNCF network links Nice to many other cities in France by train.

Less than an hour's drive away (10 minutes by helicopter for those feeling flash) is Monaco. Not only does Monte Carlo boast a spectacular setting, it is also a great place for shopping and eating out. You can catch a glimpse of the Palais du Prince, the famous Grimaldi family's home, try your luck at the casino or take the kids to the Musée Océanographique or the Jardin Exotique. Another good day-trip option, especially for those wanting to escape the summer heat, is to explore the steep hillside of Nice's hinterland and the nearby town of Digne-les-Bains on board one of the old diesel trains operated by Chemins de Fer de la Provence.

An unmissable landmark on the promenade des Anglais (its pink dome has been watching over the waterfront since 1913), the Hotel Negresco (37 promenade des Anglais) is a local institution. It boasts sumptuously decorated rooms, two restaurants (including The Chantecler, which has long been established as the best in town, and has one Michelin star), valet parking, several exclusive boutiques and its own private beach.

Nice Cote d'Azur (NCE)