Bandol

Probably best known for producing the famous AOC wine of the same name, Bandol is one of the largest and oldest seaside resorts on the coast. Writers such as Thomas Mann, Aldous Huxley, Katherine Mansfield and Marcel Pagnol, and stars such as Mistinguett, Raimu and Fernandel were well aware of the charms of Bandol as a holiday spot, long before Brigitte Bardot discovered St Tropez. The small traditional Provencal seaside village has grown since then, and today Bandol's marina boasts 1,500 berths sheltering boats of all sizes, from yachts to professional fishing boats.

Bandol draws a mixed crowd, from young people coming for the watersports on offer to families attracted by the safe beaches. Increasingly foreigners, mainly from Western Europe, join locals in the summer.

Bandol lies on the Mediterranean Coast in the south of France, between the cities of Marseille to the west and Toulon to the east. The resort is located in the departement of the Var. Toulon-Hyères (TLN) is the nearest airport.

There are several sand beaches in Bandol, as well as calanques (smaller inlets and creeks) dotted along the coast, some accessible by boat only. The Plage du Lido, Plage du Casino and the Plage de Rènecros are the main beaches, and the most crowded. A good range of watersports is available, including sailing, waterskiing, sea-kayaking, windsurfing, scuba-diving and deep sea fishing.

Boat trips to the island of Porquerolles, or to Cassis and the Calanques are popular excursions from Bandol. Or you could go for a walk on the Sentier Littoral between Bandol and St Cyr sur Mer (12km/7 miles), a walking route that snakes around the coast. The path rambles around the sea and over rocks, opening up into some quiet coves. If you fancy a spot of golf, try the golf course of Frégate, route de Bandol in nearby Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer.

Sailing and sea-kayaking are two activities popular with older children. Paragliding, mountain biking, tennis and horse-riding are also available in or around Bandol. The exotic gardens and zoo (route de Sanary-sur-Mer) will appeal to younger children.

There are plenty of shops in Bandol catering to the passing holidaymaker trade with all sorts of beachwear and souvenirs. Local supermarkets are also handy for stocking up on groceries. There is a market every Tuesday morning by the harbour, and a bigger daily market in nearby Sanary-sur-Mer. Typical souvenirs include the famous Bandol (AOC) wine, particularly the reds: they are made from the Mourvèdre grape and are fine examples of what can be achieved with this underrated grape. Olive oil is also popular, and so are local herbs (thyme, rosemary and lavender).

Bandol is not known as a wild party town, but there is enough nightlife to keep most people entertained in the evening. Most of the bars (some with live music) are concentrated around the harbour area, and there are a couple of nightclubs for those wishing to dance the night away. Le Casino de Bandol (place Lucien Artaud) is open daily until 0400, and features 120 slot machines and seven game tables. The Black Jack Elixir Art Club (under the casino) is a trendy spot that offers themed evenings every Friday.

There are plenty of restaurants, crêperies, pizzerias and snack bars in Bandol. The harbour area is where most of those are concentrated. Make sure you try the local AOC Bandol wine (see Retail Therapy).

Bandol can easily be explored on foot. A bus network links the resort with other towns and villages in the area. The SNCF network links Bandol to many other cities in France by train. Also bikes can be hired.

The two hilltop villages of La Cadiere and Le Castellet are well worth a visit. Both these medieval villages have retained the charm of times gone by. Exploring their narrow cobbled streets (be warned, this might involve some steep steps!) will yield timeless treasures, whether the gentle gurgle of a little fountain in a shaded square on a hot summer day or the riot of colours gracing one of the many flower-filled balconies. For a more cosmopolitan excursion, Marseille lies 50km (31 miles) to the east (for further information, check out Columbus City Guide to Marseille).

Charter an old-fashioned two-mast rigging boat and take to the open sea in style. The hire price for the Cap des Palmes (website: www.capdespalmes.com) includes a skipper for the day, food and wine, and even photos of your day aboard to take home at the end of your adventure.

Toulon-Hyères (TLN)