Cefalù

Although tourists seem increasingly to be waking up to the charm of its lovely sandy beach, Cefalù still seems to be something of a forgotten jewel on Sicily's northern coast. An old fishing village with narrow, winding streets from medieval times and a splendid 12th-century cathedral, it possesses all the beauty and charm of the Mediterranean basin - as well as that excellent beach. The Oscar-winning film Cinema Paradiso, with its slightly nostalgic depiction of a bygone era, was shot in Cefalù - and not without reason. Something about the slower pace of life here does indeed recall an older, possibly gentler time.

Increasingly during the summer months Cefalù attracts people who come because of the beach. Italian and Sicilian families and also elderly visitors constitute the vast majority, although foreign tourists are far from uncommon. The town also attracts people who use the town as a starting point for treks in the Madonie mountains to the south of town.

Cefalù is situated on the northern coast of the Italian island of Sicily by the Tyrrhonian Sea, some 180km (111 miles) from Messina in the east and 74km (46 miles) from Palermo to the west. It belongs to the province of Palermo. Cefalù is practically on the beach, occupying the not very wide area between the sea and the huge promontory rising up just behind the town and completely dominating the vision towards the east and south east.

Cefalù has a long and lovely beach with clean, golden sand, without doubt one of the best in Sicily. And it's very easy to get to, just a short walk from the main road leading through town. It gets very crowded in the summer months, but not quite to the same extent as the beaches near Taormina, for instance. Public showers are available on the western side of the beach.

Il Duomo, the cathedral built by the Norman king Roger II from 1131 onwards, is the dominant structure in the town, its two towers rising up well above the rest of the buildings. The exterior is well preserved, while the interior has been restored several times through the centuries. It is more gothic and Romanesque than Byzantine in character but still has impressive mosaics. A much more strenuous, yet rewarding, exercise is to climb up to the summit of the promontory above the town. It is steep, and it takes a good half hour, but the views of the coast and the sea from there are impressive. Besides, the walk will take you to the ruins of an old fortress and temple devoted to the goddess Diana from the 5th century BC. The Mandralisca Museum was founded by a local art collector who bequeathed his art treasures and extensive library to the town. It houses the Portrait of Unknown by Antonello da Messina, an extensive collection of shells, and a variety of objects d'art, among which is a Chinese puzzle in ivory.

The beach and the sea offer excellent opportunities for sunbathing, swimming and other water activities and so should keep most families happy. There are pedal boats for hire at the beach in Ogliastrillo, 4km (2.5 miles) west of Cefalù. Fishing is available everywhere. Walking in the hills to the south of town is another popular activity, and there are several gentle routes that can be enjoyed by kids.

Cefalù isn't really much more than a fishing village, and it's some distance from both Milan and Paris. Still, this is Italy, so there is no shortage of shopping opportunities for anyone looking for fashion items in Cefalù's narrow medieval streets. Textiles and clothing with fine petit point décor is something of a speciality, as are ceramics.

There are a couple of discos and clubs in Cefalù, but the nightlife is quite low key. True, with arrival of the tourist hordes in summer, things tend to heat up a bit, but people in Cefalù seem to be happy spending the evenings either in a restaurant or in a bar or café on the Piazza Duomo with a drink, relaxing and watching other people stroll by.

There are plenty of restaurants and pizzerias in Cefalù, both along the narrow, medieval streets in the town centre and along the waterfront. Many are very good, while some are average and overpriced. If you have the time, ask for recommendations at the tourist office. Il Saraceno (Via Bordonaro 50) is very good and has a great location overlooking the sea. Al Porticciolo (Via Bordonaro 66) is also located down by the sea and serves great pizzas. Vecchia Marina (Via Vittorio Emanuele 73-75) is an excellent fish restaurant that also offers a nice refuge from the crowds of tourists.

Cefalù is best explored on foot, as its medieval streets are very narrow. Public transport in and around the town is quite good though. There are fairly frequent bus and train departures to and from Messina and Palermo, and the local bus network makes the Madonie mountains to the south of town conveniently accessible. For travel further inland it is advisable to hire a car. The train station is located to the south of the town centre, a 10-minute walk from the Piazza Duomo (although it is possible to catch a bus). In peak tourist season, it can be hard to find parking spaces in Cefalù.

High up in the Madonie mountains south of Cefalu, some 15km (9 miles) from the town, is the hillside sanctuary of Gibilmanna. Positioned 800m (2625ft) above sea level, it is a pilgrimage destination with a church and a lovely forested area surrounding it. Combine a trip here with a trek in the mountains. Slightly further away (25km/15 miles) is the mountain village of Castelbuono, which has a 14th-century castle and other medieval architectural vestiges as well as steep, narrow streets and charming little piazzas. And of course, only 75km (45 miles) away is Palermo, with all its riches.

Stay a night at Hotel Alberi del Paradiso (Via dei Mulini 18-20) a lovely, elegant hotel in an old manor house with great views of the town, a lush park with olive trees, a stylish swimming pool and an excellent restaurant serving seafood dishes with fresh ingredients. Luxury is on offer here, but in a gentle, sophisticated way.

Palermo Airport (Punta Raisi) (PMO)