Holetown

One of the most stable countries in the Caribbean, Barbados was under uninterrupted British rule from 1627 until the island's independence in 1966. Holetown, the original British settlement, lies at the centre of St James Parish, at the centre of the island's so-called Platinum Coast. This is where you'll find the island's most expensive and exclusive resorts, and also a few more down-to-earth spots. While many travellers don't even leave their self-contained resorts, there are some good places to shop in and around Holetown, as well as a few independent restaurants and beach bars. It's also easy enough to escape to the capital, Bridgetown, for shopping, or to the popular nightlife establishments in the St Lawrence Gap. Wherever you go, you'll find the Bajans (bay-juhns) friendly and welcoming.

St James draws mostly affluent adults and honeymooners, the single largest group of whom hail from Britain. Families are more prevalent in the summer months, when prices are lower; during the winter high season, a few top resorts are restricted to adults only.

Barbados stands alone in the Atlantic, 160km (100 miles) east of the other Windward Islands in the Caribbean, its closest neighbour being St Lucia. The modern and comfortable Grantley Adams International Airport is near the southern tip of the island and can be an hour's drive from the resorts in the Holetown/St James region. Holetown, in St James Parish, is in the middle of the island's west coast, where the poshest resorts can be found. It is approximately 23km (14 miles) northwest of the airport.

Beaches on the west coast have fine white sand. With little surf and smooth, sandy bottoms, these beaches are excellent for both swimming and sunning; however, the beaches of St James Parish are somewhat narrower than those along the southern coast or further north. The best area is Paynes Bay, which is south of Holetown; the bay is lined with luxury hotels, but if you are not staying in the area, there is public access near the Coach House, a popular beachfront bar.

Barbados has both natural and historical treasures to explore, though few are in St James Parish. In Holetown, you can visit the impressive St James Parish Church, along Highway 1. Golfers will find much to love about Barbados, particularly if they can get a coveted tee time at one of the area's excellent golf courses, including those at Sandy Lane, in Paynes Bay, or the Royal Westmoreland Golf Club, in Westmoreland. One of the island's top attractions is Harrison's Cave, an extensive limestone cave system in Welchman Hall, but that is a longer trip.

Some of the large resorts in St James Parish have organised programmes for kids. Folkestone Marine Park, in Church Point just north of Holetown, is a favourite family attraction with a museum and aquarium; offshore is a snorkelling trail and glass-bottom boat rides for those who don't want to get wet.

Shoppers will not be disappointed in the island's duty-free offerings. A charming Chattel House Village along Highway 1 in Holetown has a good range of shops. Further afield, Tyrol Cot in Codrington Hill, St Michael, offers the opportunity to watch local artisans make their wares. Blue or green Earthworks Pottery is top-quality. The largest concentration of shops can be found in downtown Bridgetown.

The island's best street party is the weekend Oistens Fish Fry in the south-coast fishing village of Oistens. If you go all that way, why not stop at some of the bars and clubs of the St Lawrence Gap? In Holetown, you can visit the Coach House in Paynes Bay, which shows sports on a large-screen TV, or the more sophisticated Upstairs at Olives, on 2nd Street in Holetown.

English breakfast is served in most resorts, but later in the day do take time to check out some of the local specialities, including Bajan-style pepper pot, a rich, spicy stew of oxtails and beef with vegetables. Barbados has many fine restaurants if you want to escape your resort, including several spots in Holetown, both upscale and informal.

A decent bus system runs along Highway 1 from Speightstown to Bridgetown, but these routes will not take you to most of the island's main sights. Rental cars are popular for exploring but can be expensive, so most holidaymakers only rent for a day or two unless they are staying in a villa. Most resorts offer shuttles to shops, and taxis are always an option, though an expensive one.

Andromeda Gardens in Bathsheba, and the Flower Forest, on Highway 2 in Richmond Plantation, will appeal to the horticulturally minded. Gun Hill Signal Station, in Gun Hill, offers both a history lesson and magnificent views. For those more interested in the history of drink, both the Malibu Beach Club (in Black Rock, Brighton) and Mount Gay Rum Visitors Centre (on the Spring Garden Highway in Brandons) offer tours of their respective distilleries.

The Cliff, on Highway 1 in Derricks, offers one of the finest dining experiences in the Caribbean. Though a meal here is extravagant almost to the extreme, the view from the cliffs at sunset is an unforgettable experience. Just reserve far in advance.

Barbados's Grantley Adams International Airport (BGI)