Tobago

Forget about being late for anything in Tobago. There are no such things as schedules on this friendly island. That is part of its charm. It is so quiet on some sections of the island that the only audible sounds are roaring waves. Other parts have tiny villages, elongated beaches and roads that winds up, over, around and through shrubbery, bamboo, banana trees and rainforests. Named after tobacco, this friendly island has had a tumultuous history. Once inhabited by Amerindians, after Columbus paid a visit in 1498, it was inhabited by the Spanish. It changed hands 22 times before finally becoming a British colony in 1814.

Certainly not uptight individuals. No, this is a place for families, singles and couples who want to chill. Trinidadians like to hop on a commuter and make a weekend of it. Yachties, North Americans and Europeans put it on their ‘places to go' list.

Tobago is located 34km (21 miles) northeast of its sister island, Trinidad, and approximately 45km (28 miles) from Venezuela. Even though it lies below the hurricane belt, every now and then one makes an unexpected visit.

The popular beach, Great Courtland Bay, on the flat, southwest side of the island faces the Caribbean on Leeland Road near Bennett and 0.64km (0.4 miles) south of Plymouth and about 9.6km (6 miles) from Crown Point (airport). Situated on the southwest side looking eastward toward the Atlantic, Little Rockley Bay is just to the southeast of the island capital of Scarborough and approximately 9km (5.5 miles) from Crown Point.

Boasting glassy, tranquil waters, glitzy hotels and one of the longest beaches on the island, Great Courtland Bay, on the southwest side of the island, is all the rage with vacationers and giant leatherback turtles. During the mating season these giant reptiles plod to shore, dig into the sands to lay their eggs. Because of its length and relative smoothness, Little Rockley Bay, on the isle's southeast side, is a delightful place for a walk or a jog. The secluded beach is surrounded by grey sands and dazzling vistas. The placid water on its eastern side sometimes clouds up but swimming near the shore is quite pleasant. A reef protects its eastern side, while the strong ocean breezes on the western side make it an attractive destination for wind surfing and other kinds of watersports.

Leave the beach and discover terra firma. The large statues at Kimme's Sculpture Museum, the castle-like structure on Mt Irvine on Orange Hill Road, capture the spirit of Tobago people. Visit the quaint fishing village of Charlottesville where the day's catch is heralded by the sounding of conch shells or check out the 18th-century Fort King George. It hangs from a cliff, just up the hill from Scarborough and is home to the Tobago Museum. If the links are more appealing, the Tobago Plantation Golf and Country Club (at the Lowlands), is your place. Its rolling hill, mangroves and beautiful ocean vistas are located in the Lowlands.

The beach is always popular with the brood and a trip to Little Tobago (a short boat ride off the northeast coast) for a hike and a swim is also fun. So is a family hike. Spend the day trekking the scenic trail along the North Coast and Englishman's Bay. It starts at Castara and ends at Charlotteville. Harris Jungle Tours (Golden Grove Road, Canaan) are also popular and offer an opportunity to venture in the rainforest to catch a glimpse of the island's wildlife.

Shopping in Tobago is concentrated in Scarborough, and the steep Burnett Hill, running down from St James Park to the ports, is a good place to window shop.  Jewellery and batik are the specialities at the Cotton House on Old Windward Road in Bacolet. On the same street at the Andrew's Rectory is Forro's Homemade Delicacies, where there is a good selection of chutney, hot sauces and jellies. Masks and music are for sale at Shore Things Café and Crafts, 25 Milford Road, Lambeau. The more serious shopper will want to hop over to Trinidad, for a better selection of merchandise.

Don't look for Las Vegas-type entertainment. Sunday School, a weekly impromptu street party in Buccoo, is the most happening event. Starting at 1900 every Wed through Sun, The Shade on Mount Pleasant Boulevard in Bon Accord, has live music and a laid-back Caribbean atmosphere. On the same street is the ever-popular Diver's Den, the only bar that stays open to the wee hours.

Tobago's signature dinner is curried crab and dumplings. The unappetising titled ‘Oil-down', a combination of salt pork or beef, boiled breadfruit and coconut milk, is another local favourite. Top them off with a sweet and sour tamarind ball or mango ice cream. Tasty chow can be had at Patino's, located alongside a courtyard with an arched bridge, lush greenery 23m (75ft) wide waterfall at the Enchanted Waters Hotel on Shirvan Road, Mt Pleasant (website: www.enchantedwaterstobago.com).

Public Transport Service Corporation (PTSC), the local bus service, circles the island. Its main station is at Sangster-Hill Terminal in Scarborough. Taxi service is quite reasonable and daily ferry and air services to Trinidad are available.

Hop a commuter ferry or puddle jumper to Tobago's sister island, Trinidad. It is just a 34km- (21 mile-) trip. Trinidad is where the steel pan, calypso, soca (another version of calypso) and limbo were born, so nightlife is always spirited. There are good deals on rum, leather goods and Angostura bitters at the urban Port of Spain shops, but get a car and explore the countryside. Undulating landscape and dense foliage border the North Coast Road. The east coast is a string of sandy beaches and towering palms, while bamboo and grottoes grace the Asa Wright Nature Center (website: www.asawright.org), a haven for birds, butterflies and orchids.

Tobago is very laid back and ‘splashing out' as such might prove tricky, as everything is pretty low key here. Take a walk on the wild side instead. Tobago Main Ridge Rainforest, the oldest protected preserve in the Western Hemisphere, is alive with diverse species of birds, mammals, frog and (nonpoisonous) snakes. For a small fee, government-appointed, knowledgeable guides will lead you through the forest pointing out different plants and animals. They will also call down rare and exotic birds from the canopy by imitating their calls.

Alternatively, from mid-July until early August, the island comes alive during the Tobago Heritage Festival, which celebrates slave traditions brought from Africa. Each village honours the gala in its own special way. Moriah has an Old Time Wedding; the stadium hosts Rum Shop Lime 2 (a re-creation of what islanders did while waiting for the rum to brew) waiting is the key here and Charlottesville's Natural Treasures has a parade and a treasure hunt. The prize, buried at the beach is three cases of Carib beer.

Crown Point International Airport (TAB)