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Introduction
This largest of the British Virgin Islands was once a favourite haunt of Edward Teach, aka Blackbeard the Pirate. These days it attracts lovers of lush landscape, gentle breezes, pristine beaches and sheltered bays. Erupting from the sea, undulating, verdant landscape is dotted with colourful homes, sometimes bumpy roads and often roosters whose main job is to signal the dawn. Reefs and wrecks lie within the clear waters and hidden coves. No casinos, high-rise hotels or crowded shorelines: just some of the best sailing, diving and fishing in the Caribbean.
Who goes there?
Good weather and constant winds makes Tortola a favourite with cruise ships, yachties, affluent couples, empty nesters and families with older children who seek solitude, relaxation and an escape from winter (December through April).
Where in the world?
Tortola, part of the British Virgin Islands (BVI), is 97km (60 miles) east of Puerto Rico and immediately northeast of the US Virgin Islands (6km/4 miles from St John). Flanking the Sir Frances Drake Channel, Tortola is the spine of the BVI. Road Town, the BVI capital, is about 14km (9 miles) from Terrence B Lettsome Airport (Beef Island).
Beach
Most of Tortola's white sand beaches are accessible by car, but one with four-wheel drive is preferable to navigate winding, bumpy roads. Arching around bays and coves, some beaches are secluded, while others are lined with bars and water sport outfitters. The long stretch of sand on Long Bay (Beef Island) is the perfect place for shelling, snorkelling or a romantic sunset walk. Apple Bay Beach, just over the hill from Long Bay, is a surfer paradise. Restaurants and bars line the funky Cane Garden Bay on the north shore. It was the inspiration for Jimmy Buffett's ‘Cheeseburger in Paradise' and many consider it the best beach on the island. Try snorkelling at Brewers Bay, just over a steep hill from Cane Garden Bay.
Beyond the beach
At Sage Mountain National Park, the trail to the summit (523m/1,716ft) offers spectacular views, plus a small rainforest with lush foliage and majestic trees. Wander around the botanic gardens or the island's old ruins. The Dungeon, Fort Burt, Fort Recovery and Mount Healthy Windmill National Park are several hundred years old.
Family fun
For the family who enjoys the outdoors, Tortola is their place. Sail, snorkel, hike or swim with the dolphins at Dolphin Discovery (Prospect Reef Resort, Road Town). The observation tower at Skyworld (Ridge Road) reveals a 360-degree view of the surrounding islands and cays. On a clear day, you can even see St Croix.
Retail therapy
None of the British Virgins Islands are a shopper's paradise but several shops court the tourist trade with rum, jams, spices, artwork, batiks and resort wear. Most are located on Road Town's Main Street, Wickham's Cay (adjacent to the marina) or at Crafts Alive Market, the Caribbean-styled buildings on the waterfront. Pusser's Company Store (Main Street at Waterfront Road) sells all kinds of Pusser-logoed resort wear, rum and condiments. Find artwork plus lotions, potions, teas and vinegars at Sunny Caribbee (Main Street) and sparkling baubles at Columbian Emeralds International (Wickham's Cay I).
A night on the town
No one goes thirsty on Tortola. Pusser's Road Town Pub (Waterfront Street) is famous for Painkillers (fruit juice drink and rum that can leave you numb). Friday and Saturday, Jolly Roger (West End) jives with local bands playing everything from reggae, rhythm and blues to rock. On Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, Quito himself performs at Quito's Gazebo (Cane Garden Bay). The colourful and eclectic Bamba's Surfside Shack (Apple Bay) may be a happening place during the day, but when full moon is full, it rocks with live music all night long.
Eating out
Tasty eateries, serving local delicacies like conch, curries, lobster, goat, Johnny Cakes (fried cornmeal cakes) and Caribbean-influenced American dishes, thrive in Tortola. Island bistros include the non-descript restaurant, Roti Palace (Main Street, Road Town), for roti (curried potatoes, onions and chicken, beef, conch, goat or lobster stuffed in flat bread), Mountain View (Sage Mountain) for a great vista and lobster salad sandwiches and, for a romantic dinner, Sugar Mill Restaurant (Sugar Mill Hotel, Apple Bay).
Getting around
There is no public transportation system on Tortola so taxis, scooters, bikes and hire cars (preferably four-wheel drive) are the way to go.
Exploring further afield
Set sail and explore some of the BVI's 60 other islands. There is good snorkelling at Virgin Gorda's Baths, a labyrinth of granite boulders that lead to the sea. Talk about laid back, at Jost Van Dyke the main street is the beach. Foxy strums improvised tunes, often incorporating the audience into his lyrics, at his lean-to bar. Discover Anegada, where reef-protected waters are awash with rainbow-coloured fish and just walking distance from shore.
Splashing out
The proximity of the British Virgin Islands, plus the calm waters that encirle them makes the BVI a world-class sailing destination. Explore the islands with a hired boat and captain, or, if you know how to sail, charter a launch and go off on your own. One of the places where you want to lay anchor is the uninhabited Norman Island. It was the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island.
Flying in
Terrence B Lettsome Airport (EIS)
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