Seeped in history, Essaouira is one of Morocco's most atmospheric and inviting coastal towns. It's been a trading base for well over 1,000 years, dealing in everything from slaves and rare purple dye to tea and sardines, and its medina, fortified by the Portuguese in the 15th century, is still a thriving commercial centre, full of tiny shops selling beads, carpets and handmade shoes. But it's most famous for the friendly, laidback vibe which, since the 1950s, has inspired artists, musicians and filmmakers including Orson Welles, who famously used the city's impressive ramparts as a backdrop for his cinematic version of Othello.

Essaouira's old town is dotted with pretty riads and small hotels which attract discerning, arty independent travellers looking for a low-key alternative to Marrakech. Essaouira's windy climate makes it unsuitable for a traditional seaside holiday but nonetheless there are some attractive, international-style hotels catering for those looking for a beachfront base.

Situated on the wild and windy North African Atlantic coast, Essaouira is 430km (267 miles) from the Moroccan capital, Rabat. Essaouira is 170km (106 miles) west of Marrakech, 380km (236 miles) south of Casablanca and 170km (106 miles) north of Agadir.

Cool Atlantic breezes keep temperatures in Essaouira mild. Throughout the year daytime highs tend to hover between 17-21°C. June-October are the warmest months, although temperatures only dip by a couple of degrees from November-May. Winter and spring have the highest chance of rain.

Wind-free days in Essaouira are rare, so beach lounging isn't really an option; instead, the broad, sandy city beach serves as a local park, popular with joggers, strollers and footballers. Conditions for windsurfing and kite-boarding are near-perfect and you'll nearly always see boarders hurtling along; some spots are good for surfing, too. Sunbathers and swimmers are best served by the larger hotels on the seafront boulevards, which have sheltered pools.

Car-free and clean, the medina is engrossing to explore. Its narrow streets and alleyways are a colourful jumble of shops, galleries and workshops and its fortifications offer great views of the crashing Atlantic. The port, once a major sardine fishing centre, is still busy; you can watch fishermen hauling in the catch or mending their nets while cats snoop around for scraps. Essaouira is usually a quiet town but if you visit in late June during its outstanding annual world music festival, you'll find it packed with a fun-loving crowd. The Festival Gnaoua et Musiques du Monde (website: www.festival-gnaoua.net) showcases the best of Moroccan talent alongside international stars.

While Essaouira isn't particularly geared up for family holidays, the locals are very welcoming and older children may enjoy browsing for trinkets in the medina, sampling tasty little pastries and (on calmer days) trying their hand at windsurfing. Some of Essaouria's larger hotels also have swimming pools to help entertain the kids.

The medina is shopping heaven: tiny shops line the narrow streets, offering an immense choice, without the hard-sell hassle found in busier Moroccan towns such as Marrakech. Marquetry boxes made from thuya (local wood similar to walnut) are a local speciality; you can watch artisans at work on the rue de la Sqala. You'll also find dozens of places selling spices, beads, rugs, African antiques, silver jewellery, babouches (leather slippers), djellabas (woollen tunics) and handmade bags. Many artists find inspiration in Essaouira and galleries such as Damgaard (avenue Oqba Ibn Nafia) and La Petite Galerie (26 rue du Rif) are worth a browse.

Nightlife in Essaouira centres around the cafe and restaurant scene and is low-key for most of the year. The hippest hangout in town is Taros (Place Moulay Hassan, www.taroscafe.com), whose rooftop terrace has great views over place Moulay Hassan, the hub of the annual music festival in late June. During the festival, live performances last late into the night. For live music at any time of year and shisha pipes head to Le Mechouar (Avenue Oqba Ben Nafia, www.lemechouar.com).

By day dine in the rough-and-ready fish bars near the port where the fish of your choice will be grilled to order. In the evening, try a cosy, carpet-lined restaurant with low, candlelit tables; La Petite Perle (2 rue Hajjali) and Laayoune (4 rue Hajjali) are both good places to tuck into a salad dressed with delicately nutty-flavoured argan oil (a local speciality) or an aromatic tagine. Essasouria is also home to one of Morocco's best restaurants, the beachfron Le Chalet de la Plage (Boulevard Mohammed V), where boat fresh seafood dominates the menu.

The only way to explore the narrow lanes and alleys of the medina is on foot; it's small and easy to navigate. The new town is served by petits taxis (city taxis) and calèches (horse-drawn carriages). You can also hire mopeds or motorbikes. To get out of town, you can choose between hiring a car, taking a long-distance bus or booking a tour at a hotel travel desk.

Several beautiful, historic towns are within easy reach. South of Essaouira, Taroudannt is a delightful, elegant walled town, with lively souks and good hotels, while Tafraoute makes a good base from which to explore the Anti-Atlas Mountains; it's particularly lovely in spring when the almond trees are in blossom. Marrakech, with its bustling souks and squares, is an easy two to three-hour road journey away.

Treat yourself to a suite in a classic riad, a jewel-box of a house hidden behind a heavy wooden door. Step inside and you'll find yourself in a cool, airy courtyard decorated with colourful tiles. Riad al Madina (9 rue Attarine) (www.riadalmadina.com) has bubbling fountains, lush greenery and masses of hippy-chic; past guests include Jimi Hendrix, Frank Zappa and Cat Stevens.

Al-Massira Airport, Agadir (AGA)
Mohamed V International Airport, Casablanca (CMN)
Menara Airport, Marrakech (RAK)