Immortalised in the film of the same name, Casablanca has, for many, a romantic, mystical appeal. In reality, however, modern-day Casablanca is a city with little time for romance; it's a contemporary, dynamic urban sprawl of lively boulevards and noisy traffic jams. Its port, which grew steadily under French colonialism in the first half of the 20th century, is still one of the region's busiest; its financial centre hosts international banks and corporations; and its overall atmosphere is business-oriented and forward-looking. For visitors, it's a good place to tap into aspirational North Africa.

Casablanca is a destination for business travellers and urban aficionados; it tends to be overlooked by the hordes of holidaymakers travelling Morocco's well-beaten tourist trail. Even the medinas, the big draw in towns such as Fez and Marrakech, see few tourists.

Strategically situated on Morocco's northern Atlantic coast, Casablanca is 95km (59 miles) southwest of the capital, Rabat. The largest city in Morocco stretches out far beyond its historic medina, which is set just back from the port in the north of Casablanca. Boulevard de la Corniche heads west along the coast from the medina.

For hot, sunny, rain free days visit in summer (June-August). The weather is also pleasant in the spring and autumn, when daytime temperatures reach the late teens, in October the mercury often rises higher than this. Slightly cooler and with little chance of rain winters are also mild.

The best of the many beaches within easy reach of the city centre is Aïn Diab, on the edge of the chic suburb of Anfa, which has a thoroughly urban vibe: the cafes and beach clubs lining the seafront boulevard de la Corniche are the haunt of young trendsetters and local celebrities. While some locals swim in the ocean here, it's often breezy and rough; the pools at the beach clubs and seafront hotels are a better, and smarter, bet. The clubs offer day membership for visitors and some of the hotels will allow entry to non-residents for a fee.

Casablanca's palm-lined boulevards and apartment blocks could have been transplanted from Marseille, but beneath the European veneer is a city which takes pride in its Maghrebian culture. The principal landmark is the immense Hassan II Mosque (boulevard Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah), the largest outside Mecca, with a 200m (656ft) minaret and room for 25,000 worshippers; unusually for a Moroccan mosque, it's open to non-Muslim visitors. Also of interest are the fine art deco buildings in the area around place Mohammed V, meticulously laid out by the colonial French in the 1930s, and added to by Moroccan modernists in the 1950s.

While Casablanca has few dedicated facilities for visiting families, the larger hotels can provide cots, babysitters and child-friendly menus on request. Some hotels also have swimming pools, which can be a big hit with big and small kids alike.

Casablanca's Old Medina has an authentic, rough-edged feel compared to those in more touristy Moroccan cities. Its shops and stalls are a good place to hunt down leather bags, brass lanterns, silver jewellery, and colourful locally made rugs and throws. For designer shopping including fashions imported from France, the area to head for is Anfa, the smart suburb on the west side of town.

The place to see and be seen by night (if your pockets are deep enough) is the boulevard de la Corniche at Aïn Diab, on the edge of the chic suburb of Anfa. Particularly busy in the summer months, this is where the city's well-dressed young things come to strut their stuff to live bands or club music. To play out your own cheesy personal homage to Bogart and Bergman, head for Rick's Café (248 boulevard Sour Jdid) (www.rickscafe.ma) in the Old Medina (148 boulevard Sour Jdid), a replica of the bar from the movie.

With choices that range from French classics to Asian-fusion noodle dishes, with just about everything in between, Casablanca is a great place for international-style dining. If you'd prefer to stick to local specialities, try one of the many places that serve excellent grilled fish, pastillas (pies stuffed with pigeon) or mechoui (roast lamb) followed by delicious thé à la menthe (mint tea), or fill up on kebabs or hearty bean stews for next to nothing in the simple eateries near the central market. For a good French meal that won't break the bank head to La Taverne Du Dauphin (115 boulevard Felix Houphouet Boigny-elHansil) (www.taverne-du-dauphin.ma).

Casablanca has a comprehensive bus network serving the city and its extensive suburbs, but the easiest way to get around is by petit taxi (city taxis that can be shared by up to three passengers or hired privately). To explore further afield, you can choose between hiring a car, taking a long-distance bus or train or booking a tour at a hotel travel desk.

Within easy reach of Casablanca, by road or train, is Morocco's capital, Rabat, where you can admire some of the most impressive Arab monuments in Morocco, dating from the Almohad and Merenid dynasties. Highlights are the stunning minaret of the Almohad Mosque and the beautiful Chellah ruins, with Islamic tombs dating back to the 13th century alongside remnants of a Roman forum and temple founded in 200BC.

For a lunch to remember, book yourself a table at one of the finest restaurants in town, A Ma Bretagne (boulevard Océan Atlantique, Sidi Abderrahmane) (www.amabretagne.com), which serves superb French-Moroccan dishes in a cool, sleek, oceanfront property surrounded by manicured private gardens. The ever-changing menu makes full use of local ingredients such as argan oil (with a delicate, slightly nutty flavour) and freshly caught fish, lobster, prawns and squid.

Mohamed V International Airport, Casablanca (CMN)