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Galle



Introduction

Galle Town is a tale of two cities, a bustling modern town set against Asia's best-preserved 400-year-old Galle Fort. A charming time locked citadel with glamorous boutique hotels, old world back streets, and an eclectic mix of shops, and cool cafes. The area has held a mystique since biblical times when King Solomon came to the Galle to obtain gems, spices and peacocks feathers. Dazzled by the islands magnificent beauty traders and colonial powers followed in his footsteps. However, the first visitors who decided to stay and make it their home were the Portuguese and legend has it on arriving the sailors heard a cockerel on a rock (cockerel is galo in Portuguese) and as a result named this new port Galo. After the Portuguese the Dutch took over and then the British in 1796, who remained in power until Sri Lanka gained independence in February 1948. In 1988 the Fort became a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site and is now one of the countries most desirable places for real estate.

Who goes there?

Galle attracts world-class cricket players due to the magnificent cricket stadium in front of the fort, literary buffs, historians and a fascinating mix of Muslims, Tamils, Buddhists, Burghers, gem merchants and Europeans.

Where in the world?

Galle is located on the south coast of Sri Lanka, 116km (72 miles) south of Colombo, the capital. It overlooks the Indian Ocean.

Galle Fort is a four-hour picturesque coastal drive from the capital Colombo or you can fly direct to Koggala Airport on Sri Lanka's Air Taxi service, which takes 50 minutes. From Koggala Airport it is about half an hour drive to Galle Fort. Galle is situated on a coastal plain with hills behind it.

Beach

The best sand beaches for swimming and water sports are at Unawatuna. The are two lovely spots to sit and sunbathe in relative privacy and that is at Light House Beach down a handful of steps by the main working Lighthouse in the Fort or Lady Sea Baths, where you will find local women swimming fully dressed due to the predominantly Muslim occupancy of the Fort.

Beyond the beach

Get up early and join the locals on the ramparts for their daily morning exercises and walk round the 36-hectare fort walls, which overlook the sea on one side and the world-famous Galle cricket ground on the other. At Flag Rock between Point Utrecht Bastion and Triton Bastion you will observe local boys freestyle diving off the 13.5m (45ft) ramparts just missing the lethal rocks below, whilst others play cricket, sell Dutch-style lace work, and hand made magic boxes. Top spots include the Historical Mansion Museum (31-39 Leyn Baan Street) with its crazy mix of colonial memorabilia collected by the owner over 40 years and pieces found from shipwrecks. Another highlight is the Dutch Reformed Church (corner of Church and Middle Street) originally built in 1640, and rebuilt in its current form in 1752-55. Inside the floor of the church is a stunning mosaic of paved Dutch 300 year old tombstones adorned with regal family coats of arms. A friendly caretaker will happily take you round on a 15-minute tour.

Family fun

Pilgrim's Lounge (31b Ramparts Street) is the perfect family chill out spot taking inspiration from Paulo Coelho's best selling book The Alchemist. Nihal the owner has created a space for families to sit around reading books, looking at monthly handicraft exhibitions, selling healthy drinks and teaching courses on how the time of birth, position in the planets defines our personalities and choice of favourite colour. Sri Lankans love kids and everywhere except boutique hotels such as Galle Fort Hotel will accept children from any age. In the fort locals love to encourage children to join in a game of cricket, go turtle watching on the ramparts at sunset and go to the weekly kids painting classes at Serendipity Arts Café (100 Pedler Street).

Retail therapy

Galle is world famous for its exquisite jewellery and amazing gem cutters found on Church Street. Millennium Gems (70a Church Street) is one of more than 10 shops to browse in around the fort and admire the range of Sri Lanka's best blue and star sapphires. Jewellers demonstrate gem cutting using ancient method of casting done in cuttlefish moulds. For Fort fashion chic check Mimimango (40 Leyn Baan Street) a fabulous boutique frequented by the rich and famous. Also Barefoot Galle (41 Pedler Street) combines beautiful fabrics and simple classic designed furnishings. For general arts and crafts head for Exotic Roots (32 Church Street): set in the middle of Galle Fort's exclusive shopping arcade it has everything an art lover would want, from stunning acrylic on cotton paintings to hand-made plates, trays and a great mix of bright and very bold arty household objects ranging from tiles to vases.

A night on the town

For the coastline's coolest bar, head for The Sun House (18 Upper Dickson Road). Built by a spice merchant in 1860, this lovely spot has hosted world famous authors and celebrities like pop star Sting and opera diva Summer Watson. In the main courtyard, Dick's Bar, named after the previous owner, a jewellery designer and raconteur, is set in one of the most stunning parts of Galle with views over the Galle hinterland. For a beach vibe nothing beats jumping into a three-wheeler and checking out Hikkaduwa's hedonistic nightlife (20 minutes in a tuk tuk from Galle). Start with a drink at Top Secret, followed by a boogie at Mambos or Vibrations with its live bongo drum routines and lethal get-you-in-the-mood arrack and coke party drinks. You will meet all types of travellers, local beach boys, surfer dudes and Colombo city types letting their hair down on a weekend break.

Eating out

Galle is a foodie paradise serving daily street food of string hoppers and spicy pastries by the main bus station, wonderful fresh seafood platters and magnificent banquets of homemade rice. In the Fort, Amangalla Hotel (next to the National Museum on Church Street) serves fabulous fusion cuisine. For rice and curry, and mouth-watering home-made cakes, fresh fruit juices, and the best range of coffees in the Fort, head to Pedler Street and Serendipity Arts Café (100 Pedler Street). For panoramic views Mama's Roof Café (76 Leyn Baan Street) has 360 degree terrace views that take in the lighthouse, the mosque, the Dutch Reformed Church and Galle harbour, making it a perfect setting for a sunset drink or dinner.

Getting around

Tuk tuks (three wheelers) are the best way to get round Galle. Just make sure you haggle first and pay no more than 50 rupees a kilometre (about 25p). For longer distances a hire van and driver is easy to hire via Serendipity Arts Cafe for between US$50-70 a day. Another option for those who like to live dangerously is the local air-con buses that go just about everywhere from the main bus station opposite the Forts main gate.

Exploring further afield

A popular day trip is to Yala Wildlife Sanctuary situated in the islands spectacular dry zone. Yala is famous for its abundance in leopards. You can also see sloth bears, crocodiles, elks and magnificent herds of elephants. Other top day trips include going to the religious sites of Sithulpawwa and Kataragama's sacred shrine positioned alongside Adam's Peak on the banks of the Menik Ganga (river of gems). A quieter spot is Tissa, where you can try freshly made curd milk and honey or hire a boat to take in the local bird life.

Splashing out

Aditya Hotel (website: www.aditya-resort.com) situated only 20 minutes away from the fort on lovely Rathgama Beach is currently the hot place to go for world-class fusion cuisine, cool jazz bar and the opportunity to join a class to learn more about the ancient art of mask-making or jaggery.

Flying in

Koggala Airport (KCT)
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