Hamilton Beach Resort Guide
Introduction
You can almost see the historians grin when they note that Spain failed to settle on this set of islands when they were first noted about 1503 by Juan de Bermudez - hence the islands' name. It was settlers from England, bound for the Virginia colony but blown off course in 1609, who first stayed here. Today, Bermuda is a self-governing Overseas British Territory with a population of descendants from original settlers and African slaves brought here. Hamilton is the island capital, as well. The capital is named for one of George III's favoured governors in the New World, Henry Hamilton. Incorporated in 1793, the city became the island's capital in 1815. Shop-lined Harbourside Front Street is the busiest thoroughfare; Court Street intersects it and leads north past major government buildings as well as many shops.
Who goes there?
Hamilton's harbour is a popular port of call for cruise ships. Many visitors are Canadian and British and several have retired here. From the bobbies (directing motorists who drive on the left) to the members of Parliament in powdered wigs (you can watch their debates, on Fridays), this is a thoroughly British outpost.
Where in the world?
Hamilton is on the west side of the 57 sq km (22 sq miles) island of Bermuda, 16km (10 miles) west of the airport. Overlooking Hamilton Harbour and its tiny islets in the Great Sound, Bermuda is actually a necklace of about 138 coral islands that sits nearly 1,050km (650 miles) east of Cape Hatteras, North Carolina, well north of the Bahamas.
When to go?
Hamilton experiences sub-tropical weather and is sunny and hot all year. The hottest months are from July to August when temperatures reach highs of around 32°C (90°F), however, there are no distinct seasons and the weather is enjoyable throughout the year.
Beach
Although the coastline of Bermuda has bragging rights to glorious pink-sand beaches, there are none in Hamilton. The closest stretch of sand, Elbow Beach, is about 1.5km (nearly a mile) away. Kayaks are available for hire, diving and snorkelling boats book passengers and there are food concessions.
Beyond the beach
Hamilton's thoroughfare is Front Street, and most everything is on it or nearby. Make your first stop the Visitors Service Bureau, adjacent to the Ferry Terminal, to get a map, tokens for the buses and ferries, and the Heritage Pass (about 10 pounds a person) for admission to six cultural attractions. Victorian buildings are painted in sherbet colours, adding to the feel of this being a Caribbean island, though it isn't. Lovely Victoria Park, fancied up in honour of that Queen's Golden Jubilee, features concerts on its vintage bandstand. Or contemplate the Empire's history at Fort Hamilton.
Family fun
Along Hamilton Harbour, stroll to the Underwater Exploration Institute (40 Crow Lane) to experience a 3.65km (2.3 mile) simulated dive of a submersible, or just study the cannon and other artefacts recovered from the numerous shipwrecks. It IS called the Bermuda Triangle, remember? Maybe you just want to take in a cricket or football match, played all about the island.
Retail therapy
Front Street has both souvenir stores and big-ticket shops, for china, crystal and jewellery (Walker Christopher, at number 9, and Astwood Dickinson, at 83-85, are market leaders). A S Cooper (at number 29) is a department store offering everything from souvenirs to cashmere sweaters. A must stop is Gosling's Black Seal Rum Store (at number 97) for the island's trademark (Gosling's has been on the island for 200 years) liquor and the basis for the famed Dark ‘n Stormy (over cracked ice, mix 2 oz Black Seal and 4 oz ginger beer). Also pick up everywhere tiny bottles of island-made Outerbridge's Sherry Sauce, fabled complement to chowders.
A night on the town
In the early evening Front Street is closed to motor traffic and opened to partiers and food-cart concessions. There are occasional evening concerts in Victoria Park, but there are plenty of indoor nightspots to choose, with Club 40 (at number 119) the current dance-fave. It's open until 0300.
Eating out
The island is famed for its codfish cakes, fish chowder and chilled fruit soup (made with Grand Marnier, white wine and four kinds of fruit). For waterside dining, book the Poinciana Terrace at the upscale Waterloo House Hotel (100 Pitts Bay Road). A favourite for more than three decades is the smartly casual Lobster Pot & Boat House Bar (6 Bermudiana Road).
Getting around
Hamilton's tidy streets can be explored on foot within a couple of hours or by hired scooter - there are no hire cars on Bermuda. To move out of the city, ride the convenient, clean buses that travel about the island or step aboard a ferry for sightseeing by water. You pay for the ferry with tokens bought at the Visitors Service Bureau; choose from four destinations, and there's a dock next to the bureau, on Front Street.
Exploring further afield
Five public golf courses (
www.bermudagolf.org), horses for hire, tennis courts and the excellent 30km (18-mile) Railway Trail, the renovated bed of the former railroad (for biking, plus three nature trails) will satisfy outdoor enthusiasts. The Royal Navy Docklands, once the Western Atlantic base for the fleet but now filled with historic exhibits and shops, and at the opposite (eastern) end of the islands, the quaint village of St George's, with its museums, restored 17th-century fort, town crier and a replica of the ship that carried the original settlers here almost 400 years ago, are popular tourist haunts.
Splashing out
Dance off dinner at the Oasis Nightlife & Rock Room. Oddly enough, it is on the third floor of a major building the Emporium (69 Front Street). Oasis has plenty of speakers for its throbbing music, but no food is sold and smoking is not permitted.
Flying in
Bermuda International Airport (BDA)
