Sultry, dusty Mombasa is the gateway to Kenya's sparkling Indian Ocean coast. Crammed onto an island that is connected to the mainland by a short causeway to the west, a bridge to the north and a ferry to the south, this distinctly tropical city is steeped in history. Its chunky fort, historic houses and cosmopolitan population bear witness to its long pedigree as a trading centre: Swahili, African, Indian, Chinese, Omani and British traders have been striking deals here since the 12th century, and dhows (traditional sailing boats) still ply the surrounding waters.

Most of the tourists who fly into Mombasa waste no time in heading out of town to the beach resorts to the north and south. The mixed bag of hotels in the city centre cater to business visitors, independent travellers and urban aficionados, while the beach suburbs have a few package holiday hotels.

Mombasa, the largest city on the Kenyan coast and the largest Indian Ocean port in East Africa, is situated in the south of the country, 85km (53 miles) from the border with Tanzania. The Kenyan capital, Nairobi, is 487km (303 miles) inland, to the northwest. The coral outcrop of Mombasa Island measures just 5km (3 miles) by 3km (2 miles).

The best months to visit Mombasa are January to March when the chance of rain is low. Temperatures are fairly consistent fluctuating between 27-31°C (81-88°F) during the day and rarely dipping below 22°C (72°F) at night. April to June are the wettest months with frequent often heavy rainfall.

Mombasa's best suburban beach, Nyali, just north of Mombasa Island, is close enough to town to get busy at weekends. Here you can lounge on pale, palm-shaded sand, hire windsurfing or snorkelling equipment, drink coconut juice fresh from the shell, take a camel ride along the shoreline or visit the Mombasa Marine National Park. Watersports centers at or near resort hotels also rent pedalos, bogie boards and catamarans. Some places even offer accredited diving courses.

Mombasa's Old Town, a maze of alleyways dotted with historic Swahili houses and mosques, is engrossing to explore on foot. Presiding over the harbour entrance is the late 16th-century Fort Jesus, a chunky coastal defence built by the occupying Portuguese to keep the coastal Swahilis at bay; it has battlements to climb, and a small ethnographic museum to nose around. Central Mombasa's signature landmarks are the gigantic aluminium elephant tusk arches on Moi Avenue: they commemorate a visit by Britain's Princess Margaret in 1956.

Central Mombasa is not an obvious family destination, but kids may enjoy a visit to Fort Jesus; they'll also love splashing around in the pools of the suburban beach hotels, snorkelling off Nyali Beach, and spotting elephants and zebras on a day trip to Shimba Hills, 33km (21 miles) southwest of town.

Moi Avenue is lined with curio stalls peddling soapstone sculptures, beaded bracelets, sisal baskets and elongated figures carved from wood. You'll need to hone your bargaining skills. Biashara Street is the best place to hunt down brightly coloured Swahili fabrics, including kangas (sarongs printed with Swahili proverbs), kikois (stripy cotton wraps) and shukas (red Maasai-style blankets). You can commission made-to-measure clothing from the tailors based in the area.

Mombasa's nightclub scene won't blow you away (the liveliest places on the coast are concentrated in the beach resorts to the north and south), but the Moi Avenue/Nkrumah Road area has a clutch of unsophisticated bars that turn up the volume on Friday and Saturday nights. A couple specialise in taarab, the traditional Swahili music that is popular all the way from Lamu to Zanzibar. You'll also hear plenty of reggae and high-energy Congolese beats. With a disco, cabaret, restaurant and bars the Florida Nightclub (www.cemkenya.com/florida) is a one stop party shop.

The Kenyan coast is a great place to try fresh seafood cooked Swahili-style with coconut, cloves and cinnamon. Mombasa has but plenty of moderately priced restaurants, including several excellent curry houses, and first-class street food. The classic quick bite, nyama choma (barbecued goat or beef), is often delicious. For a decadent meal head to the Tamarind Mombasa (www.tamarind.co.ke); perched on a cliff overlooking the old harbour. The views from this elegant restaurant, which fuses French, Asian and African cuisine, are beaten only by the food.

City taxis are relatively pricey and scarce; locals tend to travel by crowded matatu (shared minibus). To get out of town, you can hire a car or motorbike, take a bus or matatu, or book a tour at a hotel travel desk. To head south by public transport, you need to start by taking the Likoni ferry out of town. If you're travelling to Nairobi, it is worth taking the old-fashioned overnight train - it is one of the region's classic travel experiences.

Many visitors to Mombasa build a safari into their stay. The closest destination is Shimba Hills National Reserve, 33km (21 miles) southwest of town. This is one of East Africa's last remaining coastal rainforests, where elephants wander through the morning mist and you stand a good chance of seeing rare and magnificent sable antelopes. With more time to spare you could head inland to Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks, 140km (87 miles) northwest of Mombasa, which together form one of the largest game-viewing areas in the world. Far less crowded than Kenya's more popular parks, they are home to lions, hippos, elephants, zebras and a great many species of antelope and gazelle.

On special request, you can explore Mombasa harbour in style aboard a traditional dhow. For a real treat, book a private sunset cruise. The crew will do all the work, leaving you free to relax on a pile of cushions with a dawa (the classic Swahili cocktail of vodka muddled with brown sugar, honey and lime) and enjoy the gentle lapping of the waves against the wooden hull. With a little notice, hotel travel desks will book a trip for you.

Moi International Airport, Mombasa (MBA)