Thassos

The green, mountainous island of Thassos, on the Aegean Sea in northern Greece, is still considered relatively off-the-beaten-track. Tourism began developing here in the early 1990s and remains low-key. The main draw is the white sand beaches of the east coast, the largest and most renowned of which is Chrissi Ammoudia (Golden Beach), a sweeping stretch of sand set off against the pine-clad slopes of Mount Ipsario, rising 1204m (3950ft). Indeed, Thassos' interior offers impressive rocky mountains, pine forests and unspoilt rural villages, making it ideal for hiking and mountain biking. Since ancient times, Thassos has been famed for its white marble and quarrying continues to this day. The island's capital, Limenas (also known as Thassos Town), lies on the north coast, facing the mainland.

From June to late-September, Thassos attracts European holidaymakers on package deals (notably Brits, Germans and Dutch, and an increasing number of Bulgarians), plus a good number of home visitors from the northern Greek mainland. It appeals to those who want to relax and escape, thanks to its decent sandy beaches and unspoilt rural hinterland, which is ideal for hiking and mountain biking.

Thassos is one of the North Aegean islands, which lie on the Aegean Sea off the coast of northern mainland Greece. There is no airport on the island; it is served by Kavala airport on the mainland and visitors then transfer by ferry to Limenas, the main port, lying 32km (17 nautical miles) south of Kavala.

Thassos is almost circular in shape. The interior is mountainous. The best beaches lie along the east coast, backed by pine-clad mountains, while the west coast is flatter and less attractive.

The island's best beaches lie along the east coast. Just 2km (1 mile) southeast of Limenas, Makryammos is an organised, purpose-built resort, with stone bungalows set in pinewoods overlooking a sand beach, and good sports facilities. Further south along the coast lies Thassos' largest beach, Chrissi Ammoudia (Golden Beach). Backed by the pine-clad heights of Mount Ipsario, it offers 1km (0.5 miles) of fine white sand equipped with sunbeds and umbrellas, watersports facilities and a number of seafood tavernas. It has been awarded a Blue Flag for cleanliness. At the south end of Golden Beach lies the resort of Skala Potamias. Further south from here lie the smaller, more relaxed and very beautiful beaches of Paradiso (devoted in part to nudism) and Alyki, which lies close to the ruins of an ancient temple and two Byzantine churches. In contrast to the east coast, the west coast is flatter and offers less attractive beaches.

Thassos has several semi-excavated archaeological sites, all in Limenas, including the ancient Agora near the old harbour, an ancient theatre, a couple of temples and the ruins of a hilltop citadel. The mountainous interior offers well-marked hiking paths leading up Mount Ipsario (the most popular route begins in Potamia) and trails for mountain biking (bikes can be hired in the village of Potos on the southwest coast). The less adventurous might hire a 4-wheel drive to visit the rural villages of Panagia and Potamia, then drive up Mount Ipsario for stunning panoramic views over the island.

Thassos' unspoilt sandy beaches offer hours of safe bathing for children. The resort with the best facilities for kids is Makryammos, where visitors will find a kids' club, mini zoo, children's pool and playground. Pine Tree Paddock in Rachoni, and the Pegasus Riding Centre in Theologos, on the slopes of Mount Ipsario, both offer riding lessons and group trekking at all levels.

The best shopping is to be found in Limenas, where 18 Oktobriou Street is lined with jewellery and clothing stores. Most of the souvenir shops, stocking mementoes made from local white marble, honey and olive oil, lie on the seafront. The island's other resorts are limited to grocery stores for self-catering guests and kiosks selling postcards and beach gear.

Easy-going Thassos is hardly a clubber's paradise, though Limenas does have a string of popular bars lining the seafront. The resort of Skala Potamias is probably the liveliest place outside the capital. Elsewhere, nightlife tends to centre on the hotels, or entail low-key dining and cocktails.

Limenas offers the widest range of dining venues, with some decent seafood restaurants overlooking the old fishing harbour, while cheaper, less romantic eateries can be found near the ferry port. The island's beachside resorts offer standard Greek tavernas catering to tourists. You will find more authentic Greek tavernas in the rural mountainside villages of Panagia and Potamia.

A decent road circles the island's coast, affording access to its beaches, with several minor roads branching off into the mountainous hinterland. Local buses, departing from Limenas, circumnavigate the island four times per day. To explore the inland mountains, you can either hike or hire a 4-wheel drive. In high season, regular taxi boats ferry holidaymakers from Limenas to beaches along the east coast, most notably to Golden Beach.

Being off the main ferry routes, Thassos does not lend itself to island hopping. However, it is possible to make excursions to the mainland, with a hydrofoil trip to the port town of Kavala, home to a hilltop castle and an old town hosting several Turkish-era monuments, being the most popular. Just 15km (9 miles) northwest of Kavala lies the archaeological site of Philippi.

Indulge in some pampering at the 4-star Alexandra Beach Hotel (Potos). Lying on the south of the island, near the village of Potos, their luxurious spa offers Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi, massage, hot rock massage, facials, manicure and pedicure.

Kavala airport (KVA)