Key West

Anyone not familiar with the song that made Jimmy Buffett rich and famous should drop by this laid-back town, which can serve as your Margaritaville. Tropical troubadour Buffett did start here, ‘strumming his six-string,' singing for drinks and a few dollars. Key West is home to fishermen, would-be hippies, Cuban émigrés, jet-setters, artists, former drug smugglers and all those who dream of escaping the office or shop job to be beach bums. The touristic heart, a few blocks square, is Old Town. Just a couple of blocks off the high street, Duval Street, there is a blissed-out feel to the colourfully painted bungalows, handsome Victorian residences and guest houses.

American cruise ship passengers, particularly British and European tourists, clog the Old Town streets and prime tourist stops, such as the house where the iconic Ernest Hemingway wrote several works (907 Whitehead Street). Key West is also one of America's most gay-friendly destinations.

The town is 255km (158 miles) south of Miami, an hour by air or three hours by car. This drive along the Overseas Highway crosses about 50 bridges connecting the islands, or keys, that curve southwest from the Florida Peninsula. Key West International Airport (EYW) is located 7.5km (4.5 miles) from Old Town.

Pose for a photo next to the former sea buoy, now on a beach 1.6km (1 mile) from Old Town, bearing the painted legend that you are at the southernmost point in the USA. None of the keys is more than a few feet above shimmering seas; the frangipani, oleander, hibiscus and royal poinciana offer an idea of paradise.

Most visitors sun themselves by their hotel or guest house pool. For ocean sand, head to Smathers Beach, stretching about 2.5km (1.5 miles). Follow South Roosevelt Boulevard to the sand, about 3.5km (2 miles) from Old Town. About half as far is Higgs Beach, situated where Atlantic Boulevard intersects White Street. Both beaches have shower facilities and watersports' equipment for hire, although neither is very good for surfing unless there is a storm. Hurricane season is from June to November.

Key West measures 5.6 by 2.4km (3.5 by 1.5 miles) with hardly a curving street. Top stops are clustered within Old Town, starting with the Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Museum (200 Greene Street). It is chock-a-block with Spanish treasure (gold and silver ingots, coins, jewels, cannon) that Fisher's divers recovered from two ships sunk by a 1622 hurricane.

The Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory (1316 Duval Street) has about 50 species from around the world; the butterflies often land on visitors.

The most important store is Fast Buck Freddie's (500 Duval Street). Freddie's has quality, tropical-style merchandise, mixed with cheeky souvenirs.

Start by watching ‘fireball,' the sun setting in the Gulf. Go to Mallory Square, Old Town's waterfront, where you can watch the buskers while sipping a chilled cocktail. Afterwards, stroll to Sloppy Joe's Bar (201 Duval Street) at the centre of Old Town. Hemingway's hangout when it was owned by a fishing chum, this is a large, attractively seedy space with excellent live music. Less touristy is the Schooner Wharf Bar (202 William Street). On the waterfront in the historic seaport, it is an open-air place where customers bring their dogs, girlfriends and fishing buddies - and all have a good time.

A fine mid-price restaurant is Louie's Backyard (700 Waddell Street), in the home of a captain who scavenged from wrecks. Menu offers conch chowder, ceviche, prosciutto-wrapped salmon, pork or lamb chops. But you'll want to take that someone special outside, to the After Deck (700 Waddell Avenue), next to the Atlantic and under the stars. More casual is the Conch Republic Seafood Co (631 Greene Street), in the historic seaport, where you'll find a big menu, big bar and live music.

You can hire a car at the Key West International Airport, but it is more fun to walk or hire a bike and be able to peek into hidden gardens and smile at the locals. Get oriented by riding the narrated Conch Tour Train. The guide notes points of interest and passengers may get off and re-board as often as they like. Tickets are available at 303 Front Street, on the edge of Old Town.

Head by ferry or seaplane 113km (70 miles) west to the seven islets named Dry Tortugas, and land at Fort Jefferson. Started in the 1800s but still unfinished today, the sprawling brick fort is part of America's National Parks. You can enjoy guided tours, watch for the namesake sea turtles and swim off sandy beaches.

For gourmet fare, the place to go is Alice's Key West (1114 Duval Street). Chef Alice Weingarten, who has won national honours, offers ‘New World Fusion Confusion' cuisine including Alice's Magic Meatloaf and Asian-tinged dishes, all beautifully presented.

Key West International Airport (EYW)