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Introduction
Famed for its long beaches, sand dunes and unique sunlight (not to mention its oysters), the 30km (19 miles) long by 5 km (3 miles) wide Ile de Ré, known as the St Tropez of the Atlantic, is a popular holiday destination. The bridge that links it to the mainland, completed in 1988, opened up the island to tourism as never before, but strict controls on building and development have helped preserve its character and charm. Cycling is a great way to discover Ré, with some 100km (62 miles) of cycle paths winding through fields, salt pans and oyster farms to the northeast, beaches in the south and small villages and colourful harbours all over the island.
Who goes there?
The population of the Ile de Ré increases tenfold in August when holidaymakers descend in droves on the island. Many of them are Parisians fleeing the capital for the more leisurely pace of the island. It is especially popular with families, although singles and couples are also welcome at any time of year.
Where in the world?
The Ile de Ré is located just off La Rochelle, on the French Atlantic coast, in the Charente Maritime department. The nearest international airport is La Rochelle - Ile de Ré Airport (LRH).
Beach
The long sandy beaches of the Ile de Ré offer safe, shallow waters much prized by families with young children. The best beaches can be found on the southern side of the island, with Le-Bois-Plage-en-Ré one of the most popular and picturesque. The ones close to the Phare des Baleines on the southwest coast are more secluded.
Beyond the beach
The Phare des Baleines (literally ‘Whales Lighthouse'), at the westernmost point on the island, is thus called because numerous whales used to come ashore here. The 57m- (187ft-) high lighthouse was built in 1854 to replace one dating back to 1682. Its light can be seen from as far as 45km (28 miles) away. Once a thriving international port, St Martin de Ré in the north is the capital of the island. Today it is a small fishing harbour surrounded by whitewashed houses and boasts typical Vauban architecture, including stone gates, 17th-century fortifications and a citadel, long used as a prison, which was originally built to fend off the English and the Dutch. Also in the north are the salt pans and the oyster beds that made the island famous.
Family fun
Donkey rides on donkeys wearing trousers (yes!) are a long tradition in St Martin (the donkeys used to don the clothes to protect them against mosquitoes) and never fail to delight children. Parc Amazonia (route du Phare, St Clement des Baleines), an Inca-themed park, is another good place to take the kids.
Retail therapy
Prices on the Ile de Ré are higher than on the mainland. This is not a shopping destination, but there are nevertheless plenty of little boutiques dotted around the villages of the island. St Martin has more than any other. La Flotte has elegant stores with high prices. Most shops are open late in summer.
A night on the town
For nightlife your best bet is St Martin or La Flotte. Buskers always provide entertainment in summer, and there are plenty of cafés and restaurants in which to have a drink or a sit-down meal. The atmosphere is quite relaxed and family friendly. La Maline in the village of La Couarde puts on theatre, music, dance and even the occasional circus act. There is also a cinema on site (there is another one in Ars en Re).
Eating out
There is a good choice of restaurants on the island, catering for all tastes and all budgets. Seafood features prominently, of course, and no visit here is complete without a taste of the local oysters, but there are also creperies, pizzerias, gourmet restaurants and bistros. Make sure you taste the local ice cream, which is delicious.
Getting around
An impressive 3km- (2miles-) long bridge links the island with the mainland. There is a toll for motorbikes, cars and coaches, but not for pedestrians or bicycles. The Ile de Ré boasts 100km (60 miles) of dedicated cycle paths that crisscross the island, and cycling is a great way to explore the island, which is completely flat. Buses run between Ile de Ré and La Rochelle regularly. Taxis are also available.
Exploring further afield
Explore the nearby islands of Aix and Oleron on a cruise, and take in famous Fort Boyard too. On the mainland, check out the beautiful city of La Rochelle, with its three impressive towers and its aquarium (quai Louis Prunier) and Royan, home to the Jardins du Monde, amongst other attractions.
Splashing out
Get pampered for the day at Thalasso Ste Marie de Ré, Port Notre Dame (website: www.thalasso.net) or Thalacap, two of a small number of thalassotherapy centres on the island. Most boast saltwater swimming pools, hydromassages and seaweed wraps. Treat yourself to a stay at the lovely Hotel de Toiras (1 quai Job Foran, St Martin de Ré) (website: www.hotel-de-toiras.com). The hotel is a member of Relais & Chateaux and the rooms are exquisite, particularly the suites, which are all individually decorated and exceedingly comfortable.
Flying in
La Rochelle - Ile de Ré Airport (LRH)
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