Halkidiki

Halkidiki in northern Greece, close to the city of Thessaloniki, is made up of three ‘fingers' jutting into the Aegean Sea. The western-most peninsular, Kassandra, is the busiest and the most visited, due to its proximity to Thessaloniki. Here, a good range of accommodation, from vast, modern five-star hotel complexes to basic rooms-to-let, overlook fine, white sand beaches backed by pine trees. The largest resorts, Kalithea, Pefkohori and Hanioti (all on the east coast), attract those on all-inclusive package deals. The middle peninsular, Sithonia, is considered the most beautiful, with its unspoilt fishing villages and rugged, pine-forested interior. Less developed and less crowded than Kassandra, it caters for a rather more elite brand of tourism, and offers a large sailing marina at Porto Carras. The eastern-most peninsular, Mount Athos, also known as the Holy Mountain, is a semi-independent monastic state and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its forested slopes are home to 20 monasteries and some 1,700 monks. Only men are permitted to visit Mount Athos, and they must apply for a permit in advance.

From May through October, Halkidiki is popular with Russians, East Europeans (notably Romanians and Bulgarians), Germans and Brits, as well as Greeks from Thessaloniki, many of whom have weekend houses here.

Halkidiki lies in northern Greece, 70km (44 miles) southeast of Thessaloniki, which is home to the nearest airport. Thessaloniki is connected to Halkidiki by main road, arriving through the coastal town of Nea Moudania.

Of the three peninsulars, Kassandra is the flattest, with an interior of cultivated farmland. Sithonia and Mount Athos are mountainous and support pine forests, the latter rising to 2,033m (6,670ft) above sea level.

Halkidiki is gifted with aquamarine water and fine sand beaches, over 40 of which have been awarded the Blue Flag for cleanliness. On touristy Kassandra, the most popular beaches are Hanioti, Sani, Kalithea and Pefkohori, all of which are equipped with sun beds and umbrellas for hire, plus good watersports facilities. On Sithonia, the largest and best-equipped beaches are overlooked by upmarket hotel complexes and backed by unspoilt nature. In contrast, on Mount Athos bathing is prohibited due to the presence of the monasteries. However, the nearby resort of Ouranopoulos offers a couple of decent beaches plus regular taxi-boats which shuttle bathers to the islet of Amouliani.

Halkidiki's top cultural attraction is undoubtedly Mount Athos, with its beautiful Orthodox monasteries displaying religious frescoes and icons. However, proclaimed the exclusive domain of monks and hermits by the Byzantine Emperor, Basil I, in 885 AD, it is open to male visitors only. Anyone hoping to gain entry should apply for a permit at least six months in advance. Failing this, men and women alike can take a boat trip around the perimeter of Mount Athos, departing from Ouranoupolos. Halkidiki's other attraction is Petralona Cave, with almost 2km (1.25 miles) of corridors decorated with impressive stalagmites and stalactites. It lies a short distance inland from Nea Moudania, just north of Kassandra peninsular.

Halkidiki's sandy beaches are perfect for kids, but if these begin to pall, visit Waterland (Tagarades Street 5, Thessaloniki), a vast water park in the southeast suburb of Thessaloniki, with a large wave pool, numerous slides and a crazy river, plus bars and a restaurant. Many of the big resort hotels offer babysitting services.

The best place for shopping on Halkidiki is Kalithea, on Kassandra, where the pedestrian-only centre is lined with boutiques and souvenir shops. Alternatively, make a trip to Thessaloniki, where upmarket stores stock designer gear and the bustling Modhiano covered market displays a colourful array of seasonal fruit and vegetables, as well as fishmongers and butchers stalls. Typical souvenirs include gold and silver jewellery, religious icons, and local wines and spirits.

The liveliest resorts are Kalithea, Pefkohri and Hanioti, all of which lie on Kassandra and offer a good choice of pubs, cafes and mainstream dance clubs. Elsewhere, nightlife is low-key, and limited to wining, dining and people watching. Those in search of the bright lights should head for Thessaloniki where glitzy bouzoukia clubs feature popular Greek singers, table-top dancing and carnation-throwing. Male visitors who opt for a night on Mount Athos can expect an ‘early night' as they will be required to rise at 0330 for morning prayer.

Many of the big hotels on Kassandra offer all-inclusive deals, so a large proportion of tourists find themselves limited to the hotel dining room. However, to really get a taste of local fare, visit one of Halkidiki's unspoilt fishing villages, where waterside tavernas serve delicious fresh seafood.

Halkidiki is served by regular regional buses from Thessaloniki, arriving through Nea Moudania. Local buses link most resorts on Kassandra and Sithonia. If you want to explore off-the-beaten-track, you should hire a car. Taxis are cheap by European standards. Note that no roads lead to Mount Athos - the monastic state is accessible by boat only, departing from Ouranoupolos.

Greece's second largest city, Thessaloniki, offers a host of Roman, Byzantine and Turkish-era monuments, plus a truly Balkan vibe with open-air cafes and eateries working into the small hours. Check out the city's UNESCO World Heritage Site listed Byzantine churches and the world-class Archaeological Museum.

Visit the luxurious Porto Carras Grand Resort, on the west coast of Sithonia (website: www.portocarras.com). The complex includes an 18-hole golf course, a sophisticated Thalassotherapy and Spa Centre, a sailing marina (315 berths) and a vast casino.

Thessaloniki Airport (SGK)