Beach Resort Guide
Clearwater
Clearwater Beach Resort Guide
Introduction
Clearwater Beach is part of a barrier island on Florida's central west coast and is a three-minute drive from land. It is a thoroughly developed tourist destination and remains busy year round. Warmed by the Gulf of Mexico, the broad, flat stretch of sand is separated from the often-crowded access street by a nearly solid wall of condominiums, motels, hotels and casual restaurants. But as is the case with all of Florida's shoreline, it is public land up to a level marked by high tide, and the beach is readily accessible. Tourism is the number one economic element in this most-densely populated county in the state, so the locals appreciate and warmly welcome visitors.
Who goes there?
While the surrounding suburban communities include a large number of retirees, their public school district is one of the 25 largest in America. Thus locals on the sand range from toddlers to octogenarians. But this is also a major destination for visiting families year round - many flying directly from Canada and the UK into two nearby airports. Come the Easter holidays and the summer, this is a prime spot for college students.
Where in the world?
Roughly in the middle of the long peninsula that is Florida, Clearwater Beach is at one of the southern edges of the US. The beach island sits just off a smaller peninsula, Pinellas County (where St Petersburg is located), about 37 km (23 miles) to the south. Slightly more populous Tampa is about the same distance to the east. The land here is extremely flat.
When to go?
The region is known as the Suncoast and, except for the occasional chilly breezes or rain during February and March, you can sunbathe most of the year. However, the area does also receive regular afternoon rain showers from July to September. Winter temperatures are an average of 16°C (60°F) and summer months an average of 27°C (80°F). The summer months are also when room rates are cheapest.
Beach
The white sand is powder soft. There are few dunes on the 2.4km (1.5 miles) of Clearwater Beach, but planted palms dot the sidewalks. Because the land is flat, beachgoers can wade hundreds of yards into the warm Gulf, which experiences bath-warm waters in the summer months. There are food and watersports concessions, toilets and showers on the beach. Pier 60, used by anglers, extends into the water. At casual restaurants, such as iconic Frenchy's, you can dig your toes in the sand while eating and drinking.
Beyond the beach
Clearwater Marine Aquarium, 3.2 km (2 miles) across a busy causeway, is where injured and ill sea creatures are brought for help. The star resident is Winter, a young bottlenose dolphin fitted with a prosthetic tail; she has inspired thousands of humans facing similar mobility challenges. Southeast, in St Petersburg, is the Salvador Dali Museum, which holds the largest collection of the surrealist master's works, and the home of the Tampa Bay Rays major league baseball team. Pro hockey's Lightning and football's Tampa Bay Buccaneers play farther east, in Tampa.
Family fun
About 12km (8 miles) south, on the main beach road, is the Suncoast Seabird Sanctuary (www.seabirdsanctuary.com), said to be the largest wild bird hospital in America. Admission is free to see hundreds of waterfowl and land birds brought here for help. Or you can book aboard boats in the Clearwater Harbor for fishing or dolphin-spotting cruises.
Retail therapy
Stores along Gulf Boulevard offer souvenirs and beach-related products, but 14km (9 miles) inland is Countryside Mall, with about 170 stores, eateries and an ice-skating rink. For something a little more exotic, head north 27km (17 miles) to Tarpon Springs, home to one of America's largest Greek heritage communities, and browse along the Sponge Dock. Artists' galleries are clustered on Main Street, Dunedin, which is just north of Clearwater, and in downtown St Petersburg.
A night on the town
Other than look-alike beach bars with their sound-alike Jimmy Buffet impersonators, Clearwater Beach is not known for nightlife. Still, many people enjoy the scene at places such as Shephard's Backyard Tiki Bar (619 South Gulfview Boulevard), where the live music ranges from reggae to rock, the margaritas are big and the bikini contests popular. A major performance venue is Ruth Eckerd Hall, on the eastern edge of Clearwater. Tampa's Centro Ybor neighbourhood is the liveliest scene, with the clubs open until 0300.
Eating out
Two long-time venues are certain to provide a memorable meal. Heilman's Beachcomber Restaurant (447 Mandalay Boulevard) has won statewide and local awards from critics, but it also has been honoured by the Wine Spectator; Bob Heilman Jr even has his own vineyard in Oregon. The Island Way Grill (20 Island Way) shares all those honours with Heilman's, but offers an Asian accent - including a sushi bar and Korean barbecue - with beautiful waterfront views.
Getting around
There are sidewalks along Clearwater Beach, though none dedicated to cyclists and rollerbladers. Hire cars are plentiful at both airports and in town, and rates are rather cheap. On the other hand, parking at the city's meters is fairly expensive. The flow of visitors' cars can make the going slow on the main north-south road. An easy way to reach the coastal communities or downtown Clearwater is to ride the Suncoast Beach Trolley, which runs from 0700 to about midnight, daily.
Exploring further afield
About 40 km (25 miles) to the east is bustling Tampa, which offers a taste of its late 19th-century Cuban heritage in Ybor City, with cigar rollers, a museum and landmark restaurants such as Columbia (2025 East 7th Avenue). A few miles north of Ybor is the fine Lowry Park Zoo. And a few miles south of Ybor is the entertainment district called Channelside, which is home to the highly regarded Florida Aquarium, the bowling alley/restaurant/rock music venue Splitsville, several themed restaurants and bars, and a multi-screen cinema.
Splashing out
When locals want to impress the neighbours, they simply say, "We went to Bern's." This Tampa restaurant is widely considered the best place for steak in Florida. Diners order their aged prime cuts by thickness and weight, but Bern's (1208 South Howard Avenue) also offers 21 kinds of caviar, organically grown veggies from its own farm, fish from its saltwater tanks, and a wine cellar of more than 6,500 labels. The upstairs dessert room also has several dozen food items and 1,000 after-dinner drinks.
Flying in
Tampa International (TPA)
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