Beach Resort Guide
Venice Beach
Venice Beach Beach Resort Guide
Introduction
When Venice of America was founded in 1905, after 25km (16 miles) of canals were dug to drain the beachfront marshes and make the land suitable for residences, the area became a wildly popular weekend destination for Angelenos (inhbitants of Los Angeles) because of its amusement rides and oceanfront piers.
But after it was annexed by LA just before the Great Depression, all but six of the canals were paved over, for use as roads. Many of the original attractions and structures were later demolished. Unnoticed then, Venice became home to a counter-culture that included the Beat Generation and rocker Jim Morrison (there's a mural of him on a building here).
Now, the area is more mainstream, and rising economically, and the beach is extremely popular. Venice Beach and the desirable canalside bungalows are seen as backdrops in TV shows, movies and even video games. Famous residents include Dennis Hopper, Nicolas Cage and Julia Roberts.
But after it was annexed by LA just before the Great Depression, all but six of the canals were paved over, for use as roads. Many of the original attractions and structures were later demolished. Unnoticed then, Venice became home to a counter-culture that included the Beat Generation and rocker Jim Morrison (there's a mural of him on a building here).
Now, the area is more mainstream, and rising economically, and the beach is extremely popular. Venice Beach and the desirable canalside bungalows are seen as backdrops in TV shows, movies and even video games. Famous residents include Dennis Hopper, Nicolas Cage and Julia Roberts.
Who goes there?
Everyone: young, old, singles, families, locals, tourists, the relaxed and the hyperactive. People-watching here means observing political activists sharing the pavement with artists displaying works from nearby galleries, as scantily clad skaters roll on by. Venice Beach is synonymous with bodybuilders, who have a dedicated space on the sand. (Before his acting career, Arnold Schwarzenegger was a familiar face at Gold's Gym.)
Where in the world?
Venice Beach is 22km (14 miles) west of downtown Los Angeles and is just south of the larger beachside city of Santa Monica. Venice is about 8km (5 miles) north of Los Angeles International Airport. It is located where the coast begins to arch west into the Pacific Ocean. Though an urban and modern setting, this community is decidedly beach orientated with touches of the bohemian. Its flat topography, popular with bladers and bikers, previously attracted some of the earliest skateboarding daredevils.
When to go?
While summer is the busiest tourist season for the Los Angeles area, June mornings often find the coastal communities covered by sea fog until the afternoon. Optimum months to visit are roughly October to April; after that, it gets rather hot and smoggy.
Beach
Venice Beach is 3.2km (2 miles) long, and while the sand is not powdery soft, it's comfortable enough for sun worshippers to throw down a towel and bake. The ocean waves and a breakwater make the area popular with surfers. The city added amenities to broaden the attraction of the beach: there is a plaza, paddleball courts, volleyball courts, the biking bath close to the water's edge, and an area where the bodybuilders work out (hence the nickname, Muscle Beach). There are public bathrooms and showers on the beach, and lifeguards on duty.
Beyond the beach
The paved Ocean Front Walk is called the Boardwalk. About half a dozen blocks long is where the vendors and street performers are located. Passers by are entertained by fire breathers, musicians and jugglers, one of whom hurls three operating chain saws in the air. Across from the beach are shops selling temporary tattoos, toe rings and tarot-card readings. New Age merchants nearby offer "guided meditations," "devotional dancing" and paths to your inner peace. There are also lots of bars and casual restaurants to satisfy more basic needs.
Family fun
The Muscle Beach area includes jungle gyms and a padded area for young gymnasts. All sizes of bikes, skates and blades can be rented. Or catch the public bus or a taxi up to Santa Monica and book the 90-minute bicycle tour; the guide recounts the history and architecture of both beach towns.
Retail therapy
While the stores along Ocean Front Walk carry typical sand and sun souvenirs, just blocks away is one of the hottest shopping districts in all of fashion-crazed Los Angeles: the Albert Kinney Boulevard. This revitalised spot draws upscale shopaholics as well as celebrities. Many of these boutiques regularly feature in glossy magazines, such as Heist (1104 Abbot Kinney Boulevard) (www.shopheist.com), where choices range from designer denim to cashmere hoodies, and eclectic Madley (1227 Abbot Kinney Boulevard) (www.madley.com), where the focus is on vintage and designer knock-offs.
A night on the town
Easy night-time choices in Venice are the casual bars and live theatre. Typical of the former is the venerable Brig (1515 Abbot Kinney Boulevard). Though not on the beach, its DJs and bartenders please regulars and tourists alike. It's not surprising that in a suburb of the Movie Capital of the World, there are several live stages in Venice. Winner of about 30 awards from the local drama critics' organization is the Pacific Resident Theatre (703 Venice Boulevard) (www.pacificresidenttheatre.com).
Eating out
There isn't much pretence in this community, which may explain why the restaurant considered the best, Joe's (1023 Abbot Kinney Boulevard) (www.joesrestaurant.com), is praised for its menu of French-influenced Californian cooking as well as its reasonable prices. Starters include tuna tartare, with mains such as beet risotto with grilled asparagus, monkfish in a saffron broth, and pork cassoulet. For more basic American fare, head to James' Beach (60 North Venice Boulevard) (www.jamesbeach.com), where menu standards are meat loaf and fried chicken.
Getting around
You can easily walk or rent a bike to move about Venice. To use the public buses, check itineraries at www.mta.net. If you plan to see more of the sprawling LA. basin, you'll need to hire a car. But remember that rock classic: LA. is a great big freeway, which means loads of traffic.
Exploring further afield
Rent a car and head into eastern Los Angeles for the acclaimed Getty Museum at the Getty Center. This US$1-billion structure is futuristic and, set above the busy 110 Freeway, offers panoramic views of the city and ocean. The permanent collection of art is priceless. To study a different set of masterpieces, drive to the Petersen Automotive Museum, where visitors can see period cars in beautiful condition. Or drive south to Long Beach and step aboard one of the boats offering fishing trips or dinner cruises.
Splashing out
For that memorable purchase, how about your very own scent, created for you at Strange Invisible Perfumes (1138 Abbot Kinney Boulevard) (www.siperfumes.com). Or pick up one-of-a-kind jewellery at Nagual (1142 Abbott Kinney Boulevard), said to be popular with celebs. For an extra-special memory, how about a helicopter tour of LaLa Land? Celebrity Helicopters (www.celebheli.com) offer themed flights, starting with a 35-minute Celebrity Home Tour flyover.
Flying in
Los Angeles International Airport (LAX)
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