Cannes

Cannes is famous for two things: its international film festival, which draws film stars, Hollywood directors, movie moghuls and starlettes in huge numbers each year in May; and its popularity as a destination for business tourism - in France, Cannes is second only to Paris in this respect. Tourists outnumber both business travellers and the Hollywood glitterati in the summer months, however, flocking as they do in great numbers to this glamorous resort on the Côte d'Azur in search of sea, sun, sand and some serious shopping. The sandy beaches of La Croisette attract sun-worshippers and people-watchers, and Cannes' Old Port seems to constantly expand to accommodate more cruise liners and yachts every year. Luxury hotels, famous brands and gastronomic restaurants add to the appeal of this city, whose humble beginnings (it started life as a small fishing village) have long been forgotten.

Aside from the international jet set, which descends on the town during the film festival, Cannes has always been popular with the moneyed crowd, although you don't need a Swiss bank account to visit, and holidaymakers from all over Western Europe come to enjoy the sunny summers and balmy springs and autumns.

Cannes lies in the south of France on the famous French Riviera. To the west are the resorts of St Tropez and St Raphael, and further away the cities of Marseille and Toulon, while Nice lies some 24km (15 miles) to the east. Nice Côte d'Azur (NCE) is the nearest airport.

Cannes' main attraction, the long, shop-studded stretch of La Croisette, boasts 12km (7.5 miles) of beach. There are many expensive private beaches here, offering privacy to well heeled clients and celebrities during the film festival. Further west, along the seafront, are the free beaches where the locals gather along the Plages du Midi. These can get very crowded in summer. There are more beaches to the east of the Croisette.

La Croisette is best viewed from the highest point of Cannes' Old Town, Le Suquet, where the remains of the fortified tower still stand, along with the 12th-century Chapel of St Anne (now home to the Castre Museum). Le Suquet, with its winding streets, small boutiques and restaurants, is a lovely place for a stroll. At the end of La Croisette is the Palais des Festivals, whose endless Allées des Stars is imprinted with handprints and signatures of the famous. Just beyond is the atmospheric Vieux Port with its odd medley of luxury boats and tiny fishing vessels, rows of palm trees and the fragrant flower market of the allées de la Liberté.

Cannes is not known as a family resort, but the beaches are safe and clean and most restaurants will be happy to accommodate children. Parc zoologique de Fréjus, a few kilometres west of Cannes, is a mini safari park that will appeal to younger children, while the Musée de l'automobile (772 chemin Font-de-Currault, Mougins), which has a good collection of classic and racing cars, will keep teenage boys (and their dads) entertained for a few hours.

You will find most of the shops in the area between La Croisette and the rue d'Antibes (which runs roughly parallel to it a block or two inland). International designer shops and luxury boutiques line La Croisette, while the rue d'Antibes has the best confiseries, chocolatiers and delicatessens. The old town has any number of shops selling souvenirs. Film festival posters are popular and can be bought at Ciné-Folie (14 rue des Frères Pradignac). Other items to take home include local wines, perfumes, and chocolates. The colourful Marché Forville (between the town hall and the railway tracks) is open Tues-Sun 0700-1300. This is the place to get locally grown flowers, fruit and vegetables, or fish. Nearby is the main flower market, on allées de la Liberté.

The focus of nightlife in Cannes, as in many other resorts on the Côte d'Azur, is the casino. Apart from that, the most vibrant areas after dark are the streets around La Croisette, along la rue du Dr Monod and la rue Saint Antoine in Le Suquet. Restaurant-bars and nightclubs are open late, and prices tend to rise dramatically during high season and during the festival. Les Coulisses (29 rue du Commandant Andre) is one of the trendiest and most happening clubs in Cannes. Appearances are important here, so dress up if you are planning on visiting trendy bars and clubs.

There are restaurants for all tastes in Cannes, but the really good ones tend to be at the expensive end of the spectrum. The Palme d'Or, in the Hotel Martinez (73 boulevard de la Croisette), is a perennial favourite with locals and tourists alike, offering stylish contemporary art deco décor and top notch food. Also on the Croisette, at number 10 in the Hôtel Majestic Barrière, is La Villa des Lys, another fab spot for gourmet dining. For more reasonably priced offerings try the old town or the restaurants by the beaches further to the west.

Cannes can easily be covered on foot, although the stars of the film festival may opt for a limousine. Buses link Cannes with the nearby towns of La Bocca, Le Cannet and Mandelieu-La Napoule and stop at a few places in town too. Taxis are another option, and so is car hire. Traffic jams are few and far between (except during the festival), there are several car parks surrounding the city centre and orientation is relatively easy - the rue d'Antibes is one of the few one-way streets, and the rue Meynadier is the only pedestrianised street.

Grasse, the world capital of the perfume industry, is just 16km (10 miles) north of Cannes. You can visit some of the perfume factories or the Musée International de la Parfumerie (8 place du Cours). August is a good month to visit - this is when the Jasmine Festival takes place, bringing a carnival atmosphere and floats of flowers to the town. Nice is another good excursion for the day. There are museums and art galleries galore, including the excellent Musée Matisse (164 avenue des Arènes de Cimiez) and the Musée d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain (promenade des Arts). Or hire a boat and explore the Îles de Lérins: the two main islands of Sainte-Marguerite and Saint-Honorat are pedestrians-only and make for a relaxing stroll and a pleasant day on the beach.

Check into one of the Prestige Rooms at the Hotel Martinez (website: www.hotel-martinez.com). The bedrooms are huge, with period art deco features, and all boast amazing sea views. The hotel has a state-of-the-art Givenchy Spa, its own exclusive private beach (Z Plage - one of the largest and most beautiful in Cannes), a fantastic pool lined with hundred-year old palm trees and several restaurants to choose from, including the acclaimed Palme d'Or.

Nice Cote d'Azur (NCE)