Beach Resort Guide
Copacabana
Copacabana Beach Resort Guide
Introduction
The huge, long sweep of Copacabana beach is one of the most famous in the world. International hotels line the 4km (2.4-mile) stretch of sand, in the middle of which stands the glorious and luxurious Copacabana Palace Hotel. Constructed in 1923, it has lost none of the glamour that initially gave the beach and district its international reputation. A haunt of jetsetters from as far back as the 1920s, Copacabana continues to be a playground for the rich and famous nearly a century on. Forts stand sentinel at either end of the beach, providing pockets of history that make for interesting visits. From the sands, the iconic Sugarloaf Mountain is beautifully framed against the blue sea and kiosks dot the distinctive black and white pavement designed by Burle Marx.
Who goes there?
Visitors to Copacabana beach couldn't be more mixed. International visitors include business travellers and backpackers as well as honeymooners and families. Locals tend to be from Copacabana's increasingly ageing population and the area attracts a real cross-section of Brazilians. They, like the foreign tourists, have often travelled huge distances to promenade, people watch and relax on Brazil's most famous beach.
Where in the world?
Copacabana is in the Zona Sul (South Zone) of the city of Rio de Janeiro, within the state of the same name. This district is in many ways at the heart of the city, and includes the adjacent beaches of Leme, Ipanema and Leblon. Copacabana is backed by low green hills and is linked to the district of Botafogo by the Velho tunnel.
When to go?
The height of summer is between December and February, when temperatures regularly reach highs of 30°C (87°F). This is the period when most Brazilians take their holiday, meaning higher prices for accommodation and bigger crowds, particularly during carnival. Temperatures drop considerably during the winter months, which can experience heavy rainfall.
Beach
The deep, sloping stretch of fine, pale sand forms a 4km (2.4-mile) -long crescent. Vendors ply the beach, loudly hawking everything from beach balls to cocktails and coconut water. The larger beachfront hotels provide a beach service for their guests, including chairs and parasols, which are also available for rent from beach stands. Skimpy bikinis are the norm, but note that topless sunbathing is illegal. Volleyball and football games are played out from morning to night, while the waters often attract surfers. Even experienced swimmers should be aware of strong currents and riptides, and follow all warnings.
Beyond the beach
The Forte de Copacabana (Avenida Atlântica, Posto 6) is a fort built in 1914 that has some interesting displays open to visitors. Adjoining it is the charming Café de Forte, with good food and a lovely terrace overlooking the beach. At the other end is the hill of Morro at Leme, with another historic fort, and a scenic ‘Fishermen's Walk' through untouched Atlantic Forest. The neighbourhood of Copacabana away from the beach is worth a look for its reasonably priced shops and restaurants.
Family fun
There are always plenty of children on the sands, making sandcastles or playing football. On Sundays, the beach road is closed to traffic, meaning the area is much safer and more fun for little ones, as well as teenagers. Rent rollerblades or bikes, or just join the throngs of dog walkers, joggers and people promenading.
Retail therapy
Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana is the main shopping street and is dotted with bargain outlets, fashion boutiques, souvenir shops and supermarkets. The night market (Monday to Saturday, 1800-midnight) on the beach avenue of Avenida Atlântica, is filled with stalls selling souvenirs, clothes and art. Goods are aimed strictly at tourists so watch out for high prices and poor quality. Typical gifts include football shirts, Christ-the-Redeemer statues, Brazilian hammocks and Havaianas (Brazilian flip flops).
A night on the town
One of the most enjoyable ways to spend an evening in Copacabana is sipping a caipirinha or coconut water at one of the beachfront kiosks, many of which are open until the early hours. The bars in the international beach hotels are generally comfortable, but tend to be bland rather than Brazilian. The simple ‘hole in the wall' bars a block or two back are much more atmospheric.
Eating out
Beach vendors sell everything from hot cheese and biscuits to cold beers. Healthy fresh juices and salads, as well as meat pies and burgers can be bought from the kiosks. Hotel and more upmarket restaurants on the beachfront offer international cuisine from Japanese to French. One of the best is Le Pré-Catelan (Avenida Atlântica 4240). Prices are lower away from the beach, particularly in the buffet style ‘food by weight' restaurants and local snack bars.
Getting around
Copacabana is best explored on foot. There are frequent bus services to other parts of the city. The Metro is quick and convenient; Copacabana's two stations are Cardeal Arcoverded and Siqueira Campos. Taxis are readily available, but avoid catching one outside the large tourist hotels, where drivers often try to charge an unfair premium. Although car hire is possible, it is not recommended due to driving conditions and congestion.
Exploring further afield
Ipanema is literally just around the corner. Its beach, fashion boutiques, eateries and bars are where the beautiful people go. Adjoining it is the very wealthy district of Leblon, with some of Rio's best restaurants. In the other direction is the must-see sight of Sugarloaf Mountain, scaled by a memorable cable car trip. Heading further north, the historic centre is awash with colonial churches, lively cultural centres and traditional museums.
Splashing out
The Copacabana Palace (Avenida Atlântica 1702) has hosted guests from Jayne Mansfield to Madonna. An indulgent night here is well worth the price tag. Otherwise, a taste of this grand dame's glamour can be had in one of its bars, restaurants, or in the new spa. A gin and tonic or caipirinha by the pool can be enjoyed before a sublime Italian meal at the wonderfully traditional Cipirani restaurant.
Flying in
Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport (GIG)
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