Agios Gordios

Agios Gordios (Agios Gordis, Aghios Gordis, Ayios Gordios), on the island of Corfu in Greece, enjoys a dramatic rural location overlooking the open sea on the isolated west coast. The village is made up of low-rise, pastel coloured houses set in gardens with lemon trees and bougainvillea, built into a hillside above a long sandy beach, and backed by plunging rugged slopes covered with olive groves and cypresses. Fishing and farming are still more important to the local economy than tourism, so there's none of the hustle and bustle of the larger package resorts. This is a place where you can recharge your batteries in a homely, idyllic setting, which explains why so many loyal visitors return here each summer. Beside hotels, and rooms and apartments to let, Agios Gordios is home to the Pink Palace, a large, self-contained hostel catering for backpackers, considered among the best of its kind in Europe. Last but not least, the village faces west so it captures some of the most stunning sunsets on the island.

From Easter to late October, Agios Gordios receives a steady stream of predominantly British visitors, plus a smattering of Dutch and Scandinavians. It appeals to families with children and couples in search of a peaceful seaside holiday, unspoilt nature and a taste of authentic Greece. Many devoted visitors return here each summer. In contrast, the Pink Palace hostel, which is open the year through, is popular with young Canadian, American and Australian backpackers.

Agios Gordios lies on the west coast of the Greek island of Corfu, on the Ionian Sea, 16km (10 miles) west of the island's capital and chief port, Corfu Town, and 16km (10 miles) from the airport.

Agios Gordios is built into the steep slopes of Corfu's west coast, overlooking a long sand beach and the open sea. The village is backed by rugged limestone hills supporting olive groves and cypresses.

This 1km (0.6 mile) long, 40m (131ft) wide beach has been awarded a Blue Flag. The south end, overlooked by Agios Gordios Hotel, is sandy, though it becomes progressively more pebbly towards the north end where the Pink Palace is situated. There are sun beds and umbrellas for hire, plus water sports such as banana boats, peddle boats, canoes and motor boats. Along the beach runs a row of down-to-earth traditional tavernas and low-key cocktail bars. At the south end, a dramatic rocky outcrop known as ortholith rises up from the sea.

Just 3km (2 miles) away, by both road and footpath, lies the authentic inland village of Sinarades, with a Folklore Museum (opposite the church) in an old house (opposite the church), furnished just as it would have been in the 19th century. The isolated west coast is a good base for walkers, and the well-marked Corfu Trail, running 222km (138 miles) for the length of the island, passes through Sinarades.

The beach is great for kids, being of soft sand and safely isolated from traffic. The village offers very limited activities aimed specifically at children, but the back-to-nature atmosphere should appeal to most kids up to the age of 10. A 20-minute drive away, in Agios Ioannis on the main road to Glyfada, lies Aqualand water park (website: www.aqualand-corfu.com), a vast complex of pools, giant Jacuzzi and slides, plus a bouncy castles, an adventure playground and a games arcade.

Quaint Agios Gordios has limited shopping - a couple of general stores plus four souvenir shops, open till 2300 through high season. For gifts make a trip to Corfu Town, where typical mementoes include the island's speciality, kumquat liquor, olive oil, olive oil soap, and objects carved from olive wood.

Agios Gordios nightlife is low-key, though any one of the cocktail bars along the beach makes an idyllic venue for a romantic after-dinner drink close to the water's edge. For the bright lights, drive across the island to Corfu Town where the area known as Emporiko, 2km (1.2 mile) north of the New Port, is filled with stylish bars and clubs.

The nicest place to eat out is undoubtedly at one of the traditional Greek tavernas that give onto the beach. The emphasis is on fresh seafood, though you should also look out for Corfiot meat specialities such as pasticada (rooster cooked in tomato, onion, cinnamon and cloves) and sofrito (veal cooked with herbs). If Mediterranean cuisine begins to pall, there's also a Mexican and a Chinese a few blocks back from the sea.

Agios Gordios is small and compact and can be easily negotiated on foot. The island is well served by bus. The interurban ‘green' bus links Corfu Town to Agios Gordios four times per day in high season, with more frequent buses running between Corfu Town and the nearby village of Sinarades. Taxis are cheap by European standards. It is possible to hire cars, quad bikes and bicycles. Alternatively, taxi boats shuttle visitors to other nearby beaches along the west coast.

The island's elegant capital, Corfu Town, is stunningly beautiful with a romantic mix of Venetian, French and British architecture dating back several centuries. Alternatively, take a day trip by boat to Albania to visit Butrint National Park with its UNESCO-protected Greek and Roman archaeological site, and the seaside resort of Saranda.

Play a round of golf at Corfu Golf Club in the Ropa Valley (website: www.corfugolfclub.com), just 14km (8.5 miles) north of Agios Gordios. This 18-hole 72-par course was designed by Donald Harradine, with obstacles including several lakes, a meandering stream, and three sets of trees. Carts, clubs and trolleys can be hired and the club is open seven days a week.

Corfu International Airport (KFU)