Kassiopi

Friendly, easy-going Kassiopi, on the island of Corfu in Greece, is one of the few resorts to have retained its village atmosphere, where locals remember the faces of devoted foreign visitors who return each summer. Centring on a horse-shoe harbour, where half a dozen blue-and-white wooden fishing boats moor up each morning with the night's catch, Kassiopi also boasts five small pebble beaches, and a peninsular planted with olive trees and cypresses, and capped by the ruins of a Byzantine castle. In fact, the village's history goes back centuries. One block back from the waterfront stands the 16th-century whitewashed church of Panagia Kassopitra, built on the site of a Roman temple. And locals claim that Emperor Nero was one of the first foreign visitors to the settlement, back in the 1st century AD.

From Easter to late-October, Kassiopi receives a steady stream of British and Scandinavian visitors, many of whom return loyally year after year. It appeals to families with children or couples in search of a peaceful, down-to-earth, sea-and-sunshine holiday plus a glimpse of authentic Greece.

Kassiopi lies on the northeast coast of the Greek island of Corfu, on the Ionian Sea, 36km (22 miles) north of the island's capital and chief port, Corfu Town, and 36km (22 miles) from the airport.

Kassiopi is built around a sheltered harbour overlooking the narrow Corfu Strait, with the mountains of Albania clearly visible across the water. The village is backed by low hills supporting silvery-green olive groves, which in turn are backed by the rugged limestone slopes of Mount Pantokrator, at 914m (2,998ft) the highest point on the island.

Kassiopi's beaches are rather small but fine for a few hours bathing. A 10-minute walk north of the harbour front lies the main town beach, Kalamonias, a pebble strip equipped with sun beds and umbrellas for hire, plus waters sports facilities. Between Kalamonias and the harbour, a small peninsular, planted with olive trees and accessed via a narrow road lined by eucalyptus, is laced with three tiny coves with pebble beaches, while a 20-minute stroll further north lies the pebble beach of Imerolia, also with sun beds and umbrellas.

Northwest of Kassiopi, 12km (7.5 miles) into the hills, stands the semi-abandoned village of Palia Perithia, made up of 16th-century stone houses and churches, and renowned for its authentic tavernas and locally-produced honey. For serious water sports enthusiasts, a 20-minute walk southeast of Kassiopi lies Avlaki, a beautiful deep bay with a curving pebble beach, home to Greek Sailing Holidays, a highly regarded sailing and windsurfing school.

Kassiopi's beaches are all suitable for kids and there are good water sports facilities on the main town beach. There is a small public playground with swings, a slide and a roundabout opposite the school on the road between the harbour and the central square.  One hour south of Kassiopi, in Agios Ioannis on the main road to Glyfada, lies the vast Aqualand water park (website: www.aqualand-corfu.com).

Kassiopi is renowned for needlepoint - call at Aleka's Lace House on the harbour front for authentic handmade lace and beautifully embroidered bed linens and table clothes. In the past, olive oil production played an important role in the local economy; today there are several souvenir shops selling items made from olive wood. For everyday necessities, there are two small supermarkets in the centre.

On balmy summer evenings, laid-back Kassiopi offers little more than the simple pleasures of watching the world go by over a cocktail. The nicest bars line the harbour front - Passion Club, Déjà Vu, Efkaliptos and Kahlua all have terraces out front with romantic views over the water. In contrast, teenagers hang out at the slightly less appealing bars near the central square, which have pool tables, video games, table football and big screen TV.

The harbour front and the streets near it are dotted with family-run tavernas serving traditional Greek fare - look out for Corfiot specialities such as bourdheto (fish cooked in tomato, onion and paprika) and pasticada (rooster stewed in tomato, onion, cinnamon and cloves). In addition, you'll find Italian, Chinese and Mexican eateries of varying quality.

The island is well served by bus. The interurban ‘green' bus links Corfu Town to Kassiopi and other resorts on the northeast coast eight times per day in high season. Taxis are cheap by European standards. It is possible to hire cars and bicycles. Alternatively, taxi boats shuttle bathers to other nearby beaches along the northeast coast. Kassiopi itself is tiny and everything can be reached on foot within the resort.

The island's elegant capital, Corfu Town, is stunningly beautiful with a romantic mix of Venetian, French and British architecture dating back several centuries. Alternatively, take a day trip by boat to Albania to visit Butrint National Park with its UNESCO-protected Greek and Roman archaeological site, and the seaside resort of Saranda.

To explore the coast in style, charter a sailing boat for a day from Corfu Yachting based in Corfu's main marina at Gouvia. Sailing experience is not necessary - boats come complete with a qualified skipper, and there is plenty of time for swimming, snorkelling and fishing.

Corfu International Airport (KFU)