Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos (also known as Aghios Nikolaos and Ayios Nikolaos) on the island of Crete in Greece overlooks the calm, blue waters of Mirabello Bay. Founded as the ancient port of Lato, it lay abandoned for centuries and was only resettled as a fishing village in 1870. Today it is Crete's largest holiday resort, and although it offers no monuments of major importance, it compensates for this with its awe-inspiring location, its decent mid-range hotels and pleasant workaday atmosphere. The town centres on Lake Voulismeni, a small circular lake, which according to local myth is bottomless. There are numerous beaches close by, many of which have been awarded the European Blue Flag for cleanliness. In 1994, a well-equipped yachting marina opened here. Many Brits have bought properties in the area, so it is not unusual to hear foreigners in town even during winter. Come summer, Agios Nikolaos gets very crowded and makes a perfect base for exploring the eastern part of the island.

From Easter to late-October, Agios Nikolaos receives a steady stream of British holiday-makers on package deals, plus a smattering of visitors from other European countries. It appeals to families with children and couples in search of a sea and sunshine holiday in a dramatic natural setting, with the option of cultural excursions and a range of outdoor activities. In addition to tourists, many foreigners, notably Brits, have bought houses here, and some reside in the area the year through.

Agios Nikolaos lies on the north coast of the Greek island of Crete, on the Cretan Sea, 65km (41 miles) east of Heraklion, home to the nearest large ferry port, and 61km (38 miles) east of Heraklion airport. The resort overlooks the sheltered blue waters of Mirabello Bay and is backed by the arid mountains leading up to the Lasithi Plateau.

There are several small sandy beaches close to the centre, the best being Kitriplatia, a five-minute walk south of Lake Voulismeni, and Ammoudi, a 10-minute walk north of the lake. However, the best bathing option is Almiros Beach, in front of the three-star Almiros Beach Hotel (2km/1 mile from the centre, on the road to Kalo Horio). This long, sandy beach lies in a sheltered bay, is open to non-residents, and has sunbeds and umbrellas for hire, a snack bar, beach volleyball and watersports facilities. Alternatively, regular taxi boats depart from Agios Nikolaos harbour, transporting bathers to numerous beaches in small coves along the coast, some of which can only be accessed from the water.

The town centres on Lake Voulismeni, a small circular lake filled with blue-and-white wooden fishing boats, and ringed with open-air cafés and tavernas on one side, and steep rocky cliffs on the other. The lake connects to the harbour by a channel dug in 1870, which is crossed by a bridge. Close by, the Folk Museum (Paleoglou Street 1) displays traditional Cretan weaving, embroidery, costumes, weapons and furniture. A 10-minute walk away, the Archaeological Museum (north end of Paleoglou Street) features finds from eastern Crete, including 4,000 year-old Minoan pottery and Greco-Roman artefacts.

Agios Nikolaos is a very family-friendly resort. Boat trips to the area's sandy beaches offer hours of fun for kids. On the northeast side of Lake Voulismeni, a raised piazza is home to a small public playground with swings and a slide where the local children play.

Tasteful souvenir shops sell locally produced natural products such as olive-oil based soaps, face creams and shampoos, as well as dried herbs, spices, natural sponges, local wine, raki, olive oil and honey. Try Elixir (15 Roussou Koundourou, near Lake Voulismeni) or Cretan Natural Products (Sofokli Venizelou and Akti Koundourou 4). Every Wednesday morning, a ‘laiki' (open-air market) is held on Ethnikis Andistaseos Street, between the lake and the KTEL bus station.

On summer evenings, the Lato Festival features music and dance performances at various open-air venues around town. For a romantic aperitif by the lake try Café du Lac (Hotel du Lac, 28th Oktobriou Street); for a cocktail with music and dancing visit Alexandros Roof Garden (Kondilaki 1, on the corner next to the lake), and for late-night dancing to brash techno call at Cube Bar (25th Martiou Street 9).

The most memorable dining venue has to be Lake Voulismeni, though unfortunately it has become very tourist-orientated with annoying touts vying for foreigner clients. More authentic is the area of Kitriplatia Beach (a five-minute walk south of the lake) where a handful of informal tavernas offer fresh fish and a sea view.

The town centre is compact and can comfortably be negotiated on foot. Regular local buses run around 8km (5 miles) north along the coast to the upmarket seaside resort of Elounda, while long-distance regional buses follow the National Road west to Heraklion, Rethymnon and Hania. Taxis are cheap by European standards. Through high season, regular taxi boats depart from the harbour, transporting bathers to the more isolated beaches, some of which are only accessible from the water.

Daily excursions boats depart from the harbour for the haunting island of Spinalonga, opposite Elounda, which was fortified by the Venetians in the 17th century to protect the Cretan coast against the Turks, then used as leper colony from 1913 to 1957. Moving inland, 8km (5 miles) southwest of Agios Nikolaos, the village of Kritsa is renowned for weaving, embroidery and ceramics, which make great souvenirs. En-route, 2km (1 mile) before Kritsa, visit the lovely whitewashed church of Panagia Kira, decorated with 14th-century Byzantine frescoes. Local agencies organise one-day jeep safaris to the Lasithi Plateau, which, at 1,025m (3,360ft), is home to some 20 small rural villages and noted for its old-fashioned windmills.

Charter a private yacht for a one-day sailing trip with Cretan Sailing. Departing from Agios Nikolaos marina at 1000 and returning at 1800, one can visit the glorious beach of Kolokitha Bay, the quaint village of Plaka near Elounda, and the tiny fortress island of Spinalonga. Scuba-diving can also be arranged as part of the trip.

Heraklion Airport (HER)