Heraklion

Heraklion (Iraklion) on the island of Crete in Greece is an industrial port city and has been the island's administrative capital since 1971. At first sight it is not particularly beautiful, being surprisingly modern and buzzing with traffic. Most people come here specifically to visit the awe-inspiring Palace of Knossos (5km/3 miles southeast of the city centre), a 4,000 year-old archaeological site, and to see the world-class Archaeological Museum, displaying finds from Knossos. However, Heraklion's finest years were those spent under Venice between the 15th and 17th centuries, when the sturdy city walls were constructed. Within the walls, the old town (much of which is pedestrian-only) boasts several notable Venetian buildings plus a plethora of cheerful open-air cafés and taverns.

From Easter to late-October, regular flights bring in visitors from many West European countries, Russia and Israel. Heraklion is also a port of call for cruise ships travelling the Mediterranean.

Heraklion lies on the north coast of the Greek island of Crete, on the Cretan Sea. It is one of the island's three main ports, and lies 175km (109 miles) southeast of the mainland port of Piraeus (Athens). Heraklion airport lies 4km (2.5 miles) east of the city centre. The resort gives onto Cretan Sea and is backed by the rugged heights of Mount Iouktas.

Being an industrial port city, Heraklion is not a place for bathing. However, there are plenty of beaches along the coast out of town, the best lie to the east: Florida, Karteros and Amnissos. All three are sandy and equipped with sunbeds and umbrellas for hire, and while Florida and Karteros offer good watersports, Amnissos is better known for its informal seafood tavernas.

Heraklion's old town is filled with Venetian monuments including the sturdy 15th-century defensive walls, the fortress guarding the harbour, and the early 17th-century Venetian loggia (25th Avgoustou Street). The Byzantine Church of Agios Titos (25th Avgoustou Street) was temporarily converted into a mosque by the Turks in the 19th century. However, the town's top site is the excellent Archaeological Museum (Xanthoudidou Street, just north of Platia Eleftherias) with 20 rooms displaying thousands of ancient artefacts. Pride of place goes to finds from the Minoan period (dating back some 4,000 years) including frescoes, metalwork and ceramics from the world's best preserved Minoan site, the Palace of Knossos, which can be found 5km (3 miles) southeast of Heraklion.

Children will love the area's sandy beaches and most will also be inspired by a visit to the ancient Palace of Knossos. To experience underwater life, visit Thalassocosmos (Crete Aquarium) at Gournes (a former American base), 15km (9 miles) east of Heraklion, where 32 vast glass-sided tanks display some 200 fish and creatures from the big blue. There are also a couple of decent water parks nearby. A 35-minute drive east of Heraklion lies Star Beach Water Park (Themistokleous 5, Hersonissos), complete with pools, waterslides, a lazy river, a great beach offering water-skiing, parasailing and scuba-diving, plus a spa centre. A 45-minute drive southeast of Heraklion, Acqua Plus (7km/4 miles south of Hersonissos on the road to Kasteli) is set in gardens on a hill near Crete Golf Course and offers a giant adventure pool, a lazy river, slides and extensive sports facilities.

Running east of Platia Venizelou, Daedalou Street is lined with designer clothes stores; running north of Platia Venizelou to the seafront, 25th Avgoustou Street is home to car hire companies, travel agencies and souvenir shops; and running south of Platia Venizelou, 1866 Street hosts the colourful open-air market (Mon-Sat) displaying fresh locally-produced fruit and vegetables. Some of the best gift shops can be discovered in the side streets running off 1866 Street - look out for Cretan wines, olive oil and honey, plus jewellery and leather goods.

Each evening from July through September, the Heraklion Summer Arts Festival features open-air theatre, music and dance performances in the Kazantzakis Garden Theatre (Platia Kiprou) - pasts performers include the Bolshoi Ballet and the Vienna Opera. Those in search of dance clubs should check out the seafront road (Sofokli Venizelou) near the port, while the best open-air cafés and cocktail bars can be found in the old town, in the pedestrian areas around Platia Venizelou and the El Greco Park.

Locals like to eat out on the main road running along the seafront (Sofokli Venizelou), home to a number of informal fish taverns and ouzeri (informal eateries serving ouzo and nibbles) - a long-standing favourite is Ippokampos (Sofokli Venizelou 3). In the old town, the pedestrian areas around Platia Venizelou and the El Greco Park are good for open-air cafés, snack bars and souvlaki (kebab) eateries.

The city centre can be explored comfortably on foot. The north coast of Crete is well served by bus, with regular lines running west to Rethymnon and Hania, and east to Agios Nikolaos. Taxis are cheap by European standards. Visitors wishing to explore more remote areas of the island should consider hiring a car.

Just 5km (3 miles) southeast of Heraklion lies Crete's largest and best preserved Minoan site, the Palace of Knossos, which was built with four wings arranged around a rectangular central court some 4,000 years ago, and excavated by the British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans in the early 20th century. Drive across the island to the south coast to visit the Palace of Phaestos (Festos), yet another Minoan archaeological site, and Matala Beach, made famous by the hippies who lived here in caves during the 1960s.

Play a round of golf at Crete Golf Club (south of Hersonissos on the road to Kasteli) (website: http://www.crete-golf.com/), just 28km (17.5 miles) east of Heraklion. Backed by a stunning mountainous landscape, this ultramodern 18-hole course was designed by Bob Hunt. Carts, clubs and trolleys are available for hire and the club stays open all year.

Heraklion Airport (HER)