Korcula

Floating just west of the Croatian mainland with dazzling views over the crystal clear Adriatic, the hulking mountains of the littoral and the Skoji islands scattered offshore, Korcula enjoys an enviable island setting. Its natural environment is equally desirable: spanning just 65km (41 miles) at its widest point, this slender island is shrouded in verdant pine forests, fertile vineyards and green shrubs. Korcula also reclines in a mellow Mediterranean climate and boasts a coastline punctuated with pebble beaches, attractive bays and secluded coves. Architecturally the island bears the unmistakeable stamp of the Venetian Republic, most notably in Korcula Town, which dominated local life for eight centuries. Visiting Korcula it is easy to understand why so many people rank it as their favourite Croatian island. No small achievement when you consider that the country boasts more than a thousand islands and islets.

From late spring to autumn the majority of visitors to Korcula are 30-55 year old Europeans attracted by the relaxed pace of life, dramatic setting and historic architecture. Younger holidaymakers, retirees and families also visit year round. In the winter months a reduced ferry service sees the number of tourists fall.

Korcula is a Southern Dalmatian island located opposite Orebic on the Peljesac Peninsula in the south of Croatia; the ferry crossing takes 15 minutes. Approximately 145km (90 miles) north of Dubrovnik Airport and 250km (155 miles) south of Split Airport. 

Overlooking the Peljesac Peninsula and the rugged mountains of the Croatian littoral to the east, and enjoying breathtaking sea views. The island itself is hilly. The main settlement of Korcula Town and Lumbarda lie to the east; Vela Luka and Blato are located in the west.

Korcula boasts myriad shingle beaches. Proximity spurs many holidaymakers to plunge into the warm and clear Adriatic waters from the rocky beaches to the east of Korcula Town. One of Croatia's best beaches, though, is the sandy beach located almost 10km (6 miles) away in Przna Bay, near Lumbarda. Orebic's expansive pebble beach is a 15-minute ferry ride from Korcula Town.

Korcula Town is one of the most attractive settlements in Europe; a pretty collection of traditional houses, centuries-old churches and cobbled streets enveloped by thick stone walls. Set majestically on its own peninsula the old town boasts sweeping 360° views over the Peljeski Channel to the distant vaulting mountains of the mainland. At the heart of this historic sanctuary the Cathedral of St Mark, Trg Sv Marka Statuta, dazzles with its gothic and renaissance architecture.

The colourful weekly re-enactments of the Moreska sword dance, which spectacularly recounts a tale of good triumphing over evil, are always a winner with kids. Children will also enjoy the ferry trip to Orebic, splashing about in the sea, building sandcastles on Przna Bay beach, and exploring the Skoji islands.

An island mercifully saved from over-development, opportunities for retail therapy in Korcula are on a pleasantly small scale. When it comes to good value souvenir shopping your best bet are the craft stalls in the market located outside the sweeping steps of the Land Gate in Korcula Town. Lace made on the island, intricate embroidery, wooden utensils, wooden toys and ceramics can all be bought here. Meandering through Korcula Town you will also come across boutique gift shops and food stores.

This laid back island isn't renowned for its raucous nightlife. The liveliest bars are located in Korcula Town, a short walk east of the old town on Setaliste Frana Krsinica. From May to September these bars buzz well into the night, particularly on Fridays and Saturdays. Enjoy a sundowner with a view from the Massimo cocktail bar in the Balbi tower, Setaliste Petra Kanavelica.

Korcula Town is the island's culinary epicentre with a dozen pizzerias and unfussy Croatian restaurants serving Dalmatian fish and meat dishes. Korculan wines are highly esteemed within Croatia, so select a dry white Posip, equally dry Rukatac, or a full-bodied Grk to accompany your meal. Dry reds made from plavac mali grapes are also a good bet.

Korcula has a reliable bus network although some services are infrequent. Buses link Korcula Town to Lumbarda, Zrnovo, Pupnat, Kneze, Racisce and Vela Luka, with the latter connecting to the Jadrolinja ferry services. Long distance buses also leave Korcula Town for Dubrovnik, Zagreb, Sarajevo and Mostar. Korcula Town itself is tiny and easily negotiable on foot.

On the Peljesac Peninsula, Ston boasts fortified walls that tumble down the hillside like a miniature Great Wall of China. These mark the northern boundaries of the Ragusan Republic. Neighbouring Mali Ston with its handful of upscale fish restaurants should be an essential stop on the itinerary of any seafood connoisseur.

One of the finest seafood restaurants in Southern Dalmatia is nestled protectively within the fortified walls of Korcula Town. Just follow your nose and the fragrant scent of the smoking grill to find Adio Mare, Svetog Roka 2 (tel: (098) 243 845). Reservations are essential during the busy summer months.

Dubrovnik Airport (DBV)