Banjul

The Gambian capital is a low-key city with a distinctively tropical flavour. Situated right at the mouth of the River Gambia, it was settled by the 19th century colonial British; from this strategic base they controlled the lucrative river trade. Today, the everyday activity around Banjul's intercontinental port is as frenetic as ever, and the city market is always abuzz with stallholders and browsers haggling over fruit, fish and textiles. The evenings, by contrast, are subdued: many workers depart for the suburbs at dusk and a closed-for-business hush soon follows.

Banjul has two large hotels (the Atlantic on Marina Parade, and the Palm Grove on the Banjul-Serrekunda Highway) catering for business travellers and tourists. For those wishing to get a feel for life in a Gambian town, these are comfortable choices, but since Banjul doesn't have a ‘resort' feel, most sunseekers prefer the coastal strip further west. A handful of guesthouses, most of them pretty basic, cater for budget travellers.

Banjul, the capital of The Gambia, lies on the south bank of the River Gambia, at the point where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. Hemmed in by wetlands and water, it's connected to the mainland by a bridge. The airport is 24km (15 miles) to the south.

The best beach for relaxing is the man-made strand at the Atlantic Hotel (Marina Parade); it's quiet as most hotel residents prefer the relative seclusion of the pool. The city's other beaches are places of work, used by fishermen, boat-builders and river-ferry operators - they're absorbing to explore.

Banjul's most prominent attraction is Arch 22, the ugly monument that looms over Independence Drive. Commissioned by President Jammeh, it commemorates the 1994 coup which brought his government to power. Its top floor balconies offer an unrivalled view of the city. The National Museum, also on Independence Drive, is small, dusty and dated but among the jumble of exhibits are some interesting cultural artifacts such as musical instruments and ritual objects. The mangrove creeks on the edge of town are excellent for fishing and birdwatching.

Gambians are extremely welcoming to kids and the larger hotels offer basic childcare facilities. The city itself makes no concessions to visiting families, but youngsters with a sense of adventure will be fascinated by the exotic-looking produce on sale in the market.

Banjul's Albert Market (Russell Street) is easier to navigate than most large West African markets, but every bit as colourful. For many locals, a trip here to buy spices, bonga fish, mangoes or bitter tomatoes is a daily ritual, while for tourists there are plenty of craft stalls to browse. Best buys include locally-made musical instruments and dress fabric: you'll see stalls piled high with traditional batiks and damask in fabulous prints.

After dark, the Atlantic Hotel (Marina Parade) is the busiest meeting place; a mixture of tourists, civil servants and visiting businessmen can be found propping up the bar most nights. In all other respects, the city's nightlife is practically non-existent - only a couple of restaurants and backstreet bars stay open. Most locals either head out of town for the nightspots of Bakau and Serrekunda, or simply hang out with friends over a game of table football or a glass of attaya (green tea).

The restaurants at the Atlantic and Palm Grove hotels serve international-style fare, and sometimes host buffet nights featuring local dishes such as domodah (peanut stew with fish or meat) and benachin (spicy risotto). Elsewhere there are few restaurants geared to visitors, but anyone can visit the rough-and-ready food stalls in the market for a simple Gambian meal of rice and sauce. For snacks, street vendors sell fruit, nuts and fritters.

Banjul is a compact city that's easy to explore on foot. Alternatively, take a cab: the main hotels have ranks from which you can hire a ‘tourist taxi' for a fixed price, including wait-and-return if required. On the main roads you can flag down a ‘local taxi': these operate like buses, covering fixed routes and picking people up on request. Local taxis also take private bookings. From the port, you can take a river ferry to Barra on the north bank.

The popular beaches at Cape Point, Kotu and Kololi are 15-25 minutes away by road: here you can chill out on the sand, swim in the Atlantic (when it's not too rough) and sample freshly mixed fruit cocktails. To escape the bustle, head further south to the attractive beaches near Gunjur, Sanyang and Kartong. Alternatively, cross to the north bank of the River Gambia and explore Jinack Island, part of the wild, sparsely inhabited Niumi National Park. The heritage destinations of James Island and Juffureh are a day trip away, as are the prime birdwatching areas of Abuko, the Tanbi Wetlands and the Makasutu Culture Forest.

For an evening to remember, reserve a table at Ngala Lodge (Atlantic Boulevard, Fajara) or Coconut Residence (Kerr Serign, Kololi); each a 15-20 minute taxi ride out of town, they're probably The Gambia's finest restaurants. For a dreamy couple of days, leave the city behind and book into the luxury wilderness accommodation at Mandina Lodge near Brikama or enquire about Sandele, the new high-spec eco-lodge near Kartong.

Banjul International Airport, Yundum (BJL)