Kalymnos

The arid, mountainous island of Kalymnos, is one of the 12 Dodecanese islands on the southeast Aegean Sea in Greece. Historically, the local economy was based on sponge collecting, for which the island was known throughout Greece. Today, thanks to its dramatic landscapes, unspoilt nature and lack of commercialisation, tourism is becoming increasingly important. The island's main port is the large town of Pothia, where the sponge industry was based. Pastel-coloured Italianate mansions are built into the hillsides around the port, forming an amphitheatre-like impression. The rest of the island offers an indented coastline with dramatic fjords, secluded coves and limestone cliffs. Being arid, vegetation is sparse; the small fertile valley of Vathi offers the only cultivatable land, and citrus fruits are grown here. The best beaches and main resorts, Massouri and Myrties, lie along the west coast, affording views of the volcanic islet of Telendos. Smaller resorts on the west coast include Panormos, Emborios and Plati Gialos. Since the late 1990s, there have been moves to encourage alternative tourism on the island: the limestone cliffs and rocky crags make it a ideal rock climbing destination, and Kalymnos is one of the few Greek islands where sea kayaking is on offer. Kalymnos airport opened in August 2006.

From Easter to late-October, Kalymnos attracts European visitors in search of unspoilt nature and a taste of authentic Greece. Each October, the international Kalymnos Climbing Festival attracts rock climbing enthusiasts from all over the world. In fact, Kalymnos is one of the most sought-after climbing destinations in the Mediterranean.

Kalymnos is a Greek island belonging to the Dodecanese island group in the southeast Aegean Sea, close to Turkey. It lies 12km (8 miles) north of the island of Kos and 2km (1 mile) south of the island of Leros. The nearest international airport is on Kos; August 2006 saw the inauguration of Kalymnos Airport, which caters for internal flights only. Pothia, the island's main ferry port, lies 183 nautical miles southeast of the mainland port of Piraeus, Athens. Kalymnos is a mountainous island, offering rocky crags and limestone cliffs.

The best beaches lie along the west coast, notably the sand beach at Massouri, which has sun beds and umbrellas to rent, plus watersports facilities, and the fine pebble beach at Myrties. From Myrties, regular taxi-boats take bathers over to the nearby volcanic, car-free islet of Telendos, which also has several good sand and pebble beaches, including one reserved for nudists. Various watersports have been promoted in the sea channel separating Kalymnos and Telendos, notably windsurfing and sea kayaking. It is possible to scuba dive in the area around Vlychadia Bay off the south coast.

In Pothia, the Nautical Museum (on the harbour front, close to the Town Hall), traces the history of the local sponge diving industry, and incorporates a Folklore Museum showing traditional costumes and furniture. In the village of Vlychadia, the Museum of Ocean Finds (Vlychadia) displays objects collected from the seabed, including sponges, shells, amphorae and pieces salvaged from shipwrecks. The island is a favourite destination of rock climbing enthusiasts, with the best area being Armeos, near the resorts of Myrties and Massouri on the west coast. Kalymnos also offers some interesting routes for hikers and cyclists - mountain bikes can be hired in Massouri. For the less energetic, it is possible to take an organised coach tour around the island.

The island offers very limited activities aimed specifically at children, but the unspoilt beaches and back-to-nature atmosphere should appeal to most kids up to the age of 10.

The capital, Pothia offers the best range of stores for serious shopping (clothes, food etc), while the resort town of Massouri caters for seasonal tourists, with several mini-markets and souvenir stores. Historically the island's economy was based on sponge diving, and still today natural sponges remain Kalymnos' most popular souvenir. They can be bought in Pothia and Massouri at prices far lower prices than those in the UK. The local honey, which owes its flavour to aromatic herbs such as thyme, sage and oregano, also makes a good gift to take home.

The nightlife scene is low-key (dining, sipping cocktails and people-watching) with activity centring on the capital, Pothia, and the liveliest resort, Massouri.

Being less commercialised than most of the Greek islands, Kalymnos offers basic but authentic dining. Pothia harbourside is lined with Greek tavernas and fast food eateries, while the resorts on the west coast offer seasonal restaurants. For something special, order seafood.

During high season, regular buses connect the main towns and beachside resorts. It is possible to rent mopeds and cars. Taxi-boats take bathers to the nearby islet of Telendos (departing from Myrties) and the slightly larger island of Pserimos (departing from Pothia).

Daily excursion boats take visitors the nearby islands of Pserimos, noted for its good sand and shingle beaches, and Kos, where the capital, Kos Town, is home to Hippocrates' ancient plane tree, a 14th-century castle, and two mosques from the Ottoman period. It is also possible to take a day-trip to Bodrum in Turkey. Boats depart from Pothia, and visitors have plenty of time to explore Bodrum's 15th-century portside Castle of St Peter, enjoy a hammam (Turkish bath) and shop in the bazaar.

Kalymnos has no luxury hotels, but several idyllically located and tastefully furnished houses offer romantic bolt holes. One of the most popular is Peristeraki (website: http://peristeraki.kalymnos-holidays.gr), a hillside cottage designed for two, with wooden floors, a cosy pink bedroom with wrought-iron bedsteads, and stunning views. It lies in Myrties, just a 5-minute walk from the beach.

Kalymnos Airport (JKL)