So much more than a beach resort, Varna is Bulgaria's third biggest city and capital of the northern Black Sea coast. In addition to its long stretch of beach, lined by the attractive and relaxing Seaside Park, its historical remains are major attractions in their own right, encompassing the ancient, medieval and renaissance past. These include Roman thermae, and the second largest church in the country, the glorious Church of the Assumption. Varna's appeal lies also very much in the present, with something of a reputation nationwide as a shopper's heaven, and its boutiques and jewellery stores are buzzing year-round.

Popular with European package tourists during high season (July-August), Varna is also a magnet for Bulgarian visitors later in the summer. As a cultural city with great shopping, as well as its beach, it attracts a cross-section of people of all ages and many use it as a base to explore the Black Sea coast.

Varna is towards the northern end of the Black Sea coast, on the east of Bulgaria, with Romania to the north and Turkey to the south. The capital, Sofia, is 450km (293 miles) west.

The city is located at the end of Varna Bay on a large, flat terrace on its northwestern curve. The city's hub, and its old town, lies to the southeast, with the huge port to the southwest. The beach stretches east, lined by the attractive Primorski Park, over 8km (5 miles) long.

Most visitors, including the many package tourists, throng the city in the high season of July and August. But the city is very much thriving year-round. The best time to visit is between May and October when temperatures average 28°C (83°F). The wettest months are June, October and December.

Varna's beach is white soft sand, gently sloping for good swimming. The city's beaches are more for gentle relaxation and sunbathing, rather than exuberant sports, although there may be some surfing when the wind is up, especially towards the southern end. A volleyball net is usually in place for informal games, around halfway up the beach, and a waterslide is popular with children.

The vast Archaeological Museum (bulvard Maria Luisa 41) is Bulgaria's finest, with incredible treasures spanning Stone Age, Thracian, Classical and Mediaeval periods. Also in the city centre are the well-preserved Roman Thermae (ulitsa Khan Krum), dating back to the second century AD, with clearly labelled areas used for freezing, tepid and hot baths. The ornate Cathedral of the Assumption (ploshtad Mitropolit Simeon) is Bulgaria's second largest church, its stained-glass windows and walnut wood-carvings providing its tranquil ambience.

Varna Karting Track, a short bus ride away to Vinitza, 5km (3 miles) northeast from central Varna, has 270cc and 200cc karts, and younger kids can drive tiny motorised trucks and cars, outside Hotel Oddesos (bulvard Slivnitsa 1). The huge Sea Garden has an Amusement Park complete with bouncy castle and mini-golf, and nearby the Dolphinarium has daily shows with the sea creatures' tricks and jumps. The immense exhibits of warships, submarines and helicopters in the grounds of the National Naval Museum (bulvard Primorski 2) are impressive.

Stylish shopping is centred along the pedestrianised ulitsa Knyaz Boris I and the eastern end of ulitsa Slivnitsa, with myriad boutiques of international clothing brands, shoes and jewellery. For souvenirs, the market stalls near the Opera House, and the adjoining ulitsa Rouse and ulitsa Kavala, has wooden handicrafts, ceramics, plus fruit, flowers and bags. There is also a good selection of handicrafts at the nearby Bulgarian Art Shop (ulitsa Rouse 19). Music lovers can listen and buy local music at Stefkos Music (ulitsa Panagiurishte 2).

The beachfront bars and clubs are lively on summer evenings with house music, although the names and popularity of places vary wildly each year. In town, the outdoor tables at cafe-bars along fill up quickly along the pedestrianised ulitsa Slivnitsa, Knyaz Boris 1 and plotshad Nezavisimost, packed with promenaders. Kick off with a drink on the terrace of the Hotel Odessos on the busy square, or a glass of local wine in the Cocktail Bar on the top floor of the Hotel Cherno More (bulvard Slivnitsa 33), with amazing city views. Royal Classic Piano Bar (ulitsa Shipska 18) has a long tradition of live music from local musicians, and Bulgari Folk Club (in front of the Aquarium) has live popular Balkan hits.

Options for eating vary widely. Along the beachfront is a plethora of cafe-bars and restaurants, usually including a vast variety of Bulgarian dishes (salads for starters, grilled meat and seafood), which get lively into the night. Most will have tables on the beach, like Snak Bar Nort (on the beach in front of the Summer Theatre), busy until the small hours, and the fish restaurant Tambuktu (south beach). The other busy area is the pedestrianised square plotshad Nezavisimost, with informal dining, pizzas and outdoor dining. For top-notch traditional Bulgarian cuisine, Paraklisa (ulitsa Yoan Ekzarh 8) is highly recommended, and Chuchura is a cozy mehana (traditional restaurant) reflected in its décor. Try another variety of the Black Sea at Georgian Cuisine (ulitsa 8th Noemvri, 5) located in a quaint side-street. Pizzarela (bulvard Tsar Osvoboditel, 76) has good pizzas and unusual antipasti.

Most places of interest in Varna are accessible on foot, and metered taxis are everywhere. There is a good city bus service, plus minibuses connecting other coastal towns and resorts including Golden Sands, Balchik and Burgas. Inter-city coaches from the old bus station serve destinations further afield, including Sofia, Istanbul and Bucharest. Trains head to western destinations. Bicycles can be hired at the Hotel Oddesos.

North of Varna, there are easy day trips to the beach and mineral baths at Sveti Konstantin, and the busy resort of Golden Sands (Zlatni pyasutsi) plus its nearby Aladzha Rock Monastery. Bird-watchers could take a trip 80km (50 miles) north to the nature reserve at Cape Kaliakra, and there is dramatic cliff-top landscape at Balchik, 36 km (22 miles) north.  

Sample Bulgaria's award-winning cuisine: The bijoux, elegant restaurant in the Grand Hotel Musala Palace (ulitsa Musala 2) was judged the best restaurant in the country in 2006, and there is the finest silver and crystal tableware to match. Taste their fine filet mignon, lamb kebab and aromatic lamb cutlet, and blend of Bulgarian and European dishes. Its small menu is outweighed by its extensive wine list with vintages from around the world.

Varna Airport (VAR)