Ocho Rios

Ocho Rios is known as the ‘garden parish' because of its lush tropical flora and exotic fauna, magnificent waterfalls and winding rivers. The coastal island town also boasts one of Jamaica's most popular attractions, Dunn's River Falls. Cruise ships frequently dock here, unloading thousands of passengers into the town's craft markets, duty-free shopping areas, beaches and restaurants. Like all Jamaican towns, Ocho Rios is alive with reggae music and tourists who meander along the beaches and through the open-air restaurants and markets. Movie buffs know that ‘Goldeneye', the luxurious former estate of James Bond author Ian Fleming, is just a few miles east of town. It's been converted into a high-end resort.

Honeymooners flock to the many couples-only resorts and snap photos in front of the scenic waterfalls and gardens. Ocho Rios is also a favourite destination of American, British and Canadian tourists under the age of 40, who, among other things, appreciate the fact that English is the country's native language. Tourism is slowest between June and November, which is hurricane season in the Caribbean.

Ocho Rios is situated on the northern coast of Jamaica, 111km (67 miles) east of Montego Bay and 73km (46 miles) west of Port Antonio. The closest airport is Sangster International Airport in Montego Bay, 73km (46 miles) away, a two-hour drive away.

The coastal town has the lush Dry Harbour Mountains behind it.

Expect crowds on the Ocho Rios beaches, especially when cruise ships are in town. The most beautiful spot is Dunn's River Falls Beach, a small beach at the foot of the town's famous waterfalls. Turtle Beach is less scenic but equally busy, since it's used by both residents and tourists. James Bond Beach has scenic mountains behind it and you're likely to spot turtles swimming in the water at Reggae Vibes Beach.

The rivers and waterfalls in and around Ocho Rios make for lovely kayaking, hiking and exploring trips. Dunn's River Falls' 183m (600ft) waterfall is a must-see. You can swim near the pounding falls, and if you dare, hike up the slippery rocks. A quieter alternative are the nearby YS Falls. Horseback rides are offered along the beach or through the historic, 600-acre Annandale Plantation, a place the Queen Mother once visited. Non-cowboys can tee off 213m (700ft) above sea level at Sandals Golf & Country Club (on Main Street) or bike ride through the Blue Mountains. A drive through Fern Gully (on Route A3) a natural canopy of vegetation, lets you glimpse at hundreds of different fern species.

Swim with dolphins at Dolphin Cove (adjacent to Dunn's River Falls), or float lazily on river rafts on the nearby White River or Black River. For a little more adventure, kids can tube, bungee jump or bounce on a water trampoline at the small beach near Island Village (at Turtle River Road and Main Street). The most memorable and educational experience might be the Jamaica Tourist Board's ‘Meet the People' programme, which lets you visit a local school or spend a day with Jamaican families. Arrangements must be made in advance. Many of the all-inclusive resorts are child-friendly, with kid clubs, activities and swimming pools. At the Franklyn D Resort & Spa (on Runaway Bay) each family is even assigned a ‘vacation nanny' on arrival.

Shoppers can choose from several malls, but Island Village (at Turtle River Road and Main Street) is an open-air market that sells Jamaican handicrafts and duty-free items. Unique terracotta items are sold at Wassi Art Pottery Works (Bougainvillea Drive, Great Pond) and people drive a few minutes outside of town to purchase hand-carved wooden boxes made by Annabella Proudlock. The locally made Blue Mountain coffee is a popular souvenir and available at most shops.

Reggae music can be heard in most bars and clubs, as this is Bob Marley's native country. Most clubs are within the many large all-inclusive resorts. Margaritaville Caribbean Bar & Grill (in Island Village) (website: www.margaritavillecaribbean.com) is always filled with wild partying young Americans, and there's usually a Caribbean revue being performed at Little Pub (on Main Street). For couples, lit torches can guide your way on a slow, romantic nighttime river raft down the White River.

Something for every mood and budget can be found. A cheap, tasty sampling of Jamaican jerk chicken can be found at Ocho Rios Village Jerk Centre (DaCosta Drive). Pictures of celebrity guests line the wall at Evita's Italian Restaurant (Mantalent Inn, Eden Bower Road), where they combine Jamaican and Italian in dishes like fiery jerk spaghetti. The bar's swinging rope chairs and the tasty fish dishes make Almond Tree (Hibiscus Lodge Hotel, 83 Main Street) one of the town's most popular spots. Ruins at the Falls (17 DaCosta Drive) is a waterside restaurant offering a mix of international and local cuisine.

Tour guides or taxis are the best means of transportation, because you'll probably get lost if you try to navigate the roads on your own. Also, rental cars are very expensive in Jamaica. If you let your taxi driver serve as your tour guide, be sure to negotiate the price before getting into the car. Walking and public transportation also is discouraged because of crime outside the resort areas.

Just west of Ocho Rios is Prospect Plantation (Highway A1), a place full of history and interesting flora, some of which Winston Churchill planted himself. Tours, given on open-air tractors, offer spectacular views of the White River gorge. Just a few kilometres outside town is Shaw Park Gardens (Park Ridge Road) (website: www.shawparkgardens.com), a lovely botanical park. A day-trip to Kingston, the country's gritty capital, will give you a taste of the real Jamaica. While there, check out the Bob Marley Museum (56 Hope Road), a pilgrimage destination for reggae music fans.

Hire a deep sea fishing boat and try to hook a blue marlin, the area's prime catch, or spend a day cruising through the Jamaican rainforests on all-terrain vehicles, stopping to zip on ropes from treetop to treetop. Sooth your sore muscles at the clifftop KiYara Ocean Spa at the Jamaica Inn (on Main Street) (website: www.jamaicainn.com), known for its top-quality treatments using native plants. The resort's gourmet restaurant offers a six-course dinner under the stars, with live music, but formal attire is required.

Sangster International Airport (MBJ)