Kefalonia

The green, mountainous island of Kefalonia, on the Ionian Sea in western Greece, offers unspoilt nature, pine-clad mountains and stunning beaches. This low-key tourist destination rose to fame with the film Captain Corelli's Mandolin (2001) based on a book by Louis de Bernieres and starring Nicholas Cage and Penelope Cruz. The capital, Argostoli, lies within walking distance of the largest and most commercial resort, purpose-built Lassi, which caters for the package-deal market. The other top resort, Skala, grew up around a fishing village of the same name, and has now extended into a string of low-rise apartments backed by pine trees along the southeast coast. Kefalonia's main port, Sami, is a bustling though not particularly attractive place, but does offer two interesting caves nearby, plus regular ferries to Patra on the mainland. All the island's settlements, apart from pretty Fiskardo on the northern tip, where destroyed by a terrible earthquake in 1953, so the majority of buildings are modern concrete structures.

From Easter to mid-October, couples and families in search of a peaceful sea-and-sunshine holiday visit the island. It is particularly popular with British tourists, and appeals to those wanting relaxation rather than glamour, along with the possibility of various outdoor pursuits, and reasonably priced accommodation and dining.

Kefalonia is the largest of the seven Ionian Islands, off the west coast of mainland Greece. The island is served by an airport, which lies 9km (6 miles) south of the capital, Argostoli, while its ferry chief port, Sami, is 83km (52 miles) west of the mainland port of Patra.

Kefalonia is a mountainous island, with Mount Ainos rising 1,628m (5,518ft) in an area that is a national park, to the south. The northwest coast displays steep cliffs and several coves with fine beaches.

Kefalonia's most magnificent beach (and one of the loveliest in Greece) is the awe-inspiring Myrtos Bay, on the isolated west coast. Backed by steep, limestone cliffs, this 2km- (1 mile-) long strip of shingle gives onto picture-perfect, turquoise-blue water. It remains unspoilt, with facilities limited to a couple of seasonal cafes, plus umbrellas and sun beds for hire. The busiest bathing areas are in the commercial resort of Lassi, where the twin sand beaches of Makris Gialos and Platis Gialos hire sun beds and umbrellas by the hour, and the former also has a watersports centre with paddle boats, banana boats, water skiing and jet skiing, plus several bustling tavernas. The rather more peaceful resort of Skala has a 2.5km- (1.5 mile-) long fine shingle beach backed by pine trees, a scuba diving centre and an agency offering glass-bottom boat excursions. All the above-mentioned beaches have been awarded a Blue Flag for cleanliness.

Kefalonia's prettiest village, upmarket Fiskardo, the only settlement to have survived the 1953 earthquake, gives onto a harbour filled with yachts and rimmed by pastel-coloured, 18th-century, Venetian-style buildings. Close by, Assos is a small seaside village on a peninsular with a romantic harbour and authentic taverns. Near Sami, the intense blue waters of Melissani Cave can be visited by boat, while Drogarati Cave is a vast underground hall filled with stalagmites and stalactites. Sports enthusiasts will find opportunities for sailing, sea-kayaking and scuba diving, while the pine forests of Mount Ainos National Park are great for hiking and mountain biking. Local agencies offer ‘Captain Corelli' theme tours covering locations from the film.

Kefalonia's unspoilt beaches are perfect for kids, though few offer special activities. Makris Gialos beach in Lassi is the best equipped, with paddle boats, banana boats, water skiing and jet skiing, and there is also a go-cart circuit nearby. Most kids will enjoy exploring Melissani and Drogarati caves, near Sami.

Kefalonia's number one export is its highly esteemed white wine, Robola. Several vineyards are open to the public for wine-tasting and direct purchase: try the Robola Co-operative Winery (open all year), behind Agios Gerasimos Monastery on the edge of Mount Ainos National Park, or the upmarket boutique winery Gentilini Vineyard (open summer only) near Argostoli.

Kefalonia's nightlife consists primarily of wining, dining and people watching. For more action, the locals gather in the capital, Argostoli, where the island's biggest club, the Cinema Music Club (Lithostroto Street) offers dancing in a former cinema. There are also several lively bars clustered around the main square, Platia Vallianos. Meanwhile, package holidaymakers stay in Lassi, where pseudo-traditional tavernas offer Greek music and dancing, and bars do draught beer and big screen TV.

Fiskardo's charming harbour offers the most memorable waterside dining venue, with upmarket seafood restaurants pulling the yachting crowd. Elsewhere, visitors will find standard Greek tavernas, with the exception of Lassi, where traditional music and dancing are laid on to entertain foreigners.

Kefalonia is a large, mountainous island, whose main resorts and beaches are well dispersed. Buses are rare and infrequent, so private transport (a hired car or moped) is almost a must if you want to explore the top attractions. Taxis are cheap by European standards.

It is possible to make a day trip to the nearby, unspoilt island of Ithaki - there are ferries from Fiskardo and Sami, and private excursions by sailing boat can be arranged from Fiskardo. Greece's third largest city, Patra, on the mainland, can also be visited by ferry from Sami.

Keflonia's first and only boutique hotel, the luxurious Emelisse Art Hotel in Fiskardo (website: www.arthotel.gr/emelisse), is the ultimate bolthole. Set in lush gardens on a small peninsular overlooking the sea, it combines simplicity and style, with two restaurants, two bars, an infinity pool, Jacuzzi, gym and a tennis court.

Kefalonia Airport (EFL)