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Getting around Cairo

Public transport: 

Cairo’s public transport isn’t for the faint-hearted, with the exception of the Metro. Buses are overcrowded and most Cairenes leap onto the bus before it has stopped. Buy tickets from the conductor, with fares dependent on journey length.

Microbuses are privately run, a cross between a taxi and public bus. Shout out where you wish to go as it passes, and leap on board if there is room. Tell the driver where you want to disembark.

The Metro is one of Cairo's delights, an air-conditioned, efficient system operating 0600-2400 and until 0100 between May-September. Morning rush-hour and during the month of Ramadan, especially approaching sunset, are extremely busy. There are two lines: one runs from Helwan in the north to al-Marg in the south, via Tahrir; the other from Shubra in the north to Giza in the west, also via Tahrir where the two lines intersect. More metro extensions are planned.

A flat fare is in place for up to nine stops, with a sliding scale beyond that. You can purchase single tickets, or a discounted book of 10. The first two carriages on most trains are reserved for women only, although women can travel in any carriage without much risk of harassment.

Taxis: 

There are two types of taxis: the new white or yellow metered variety (T: (02) 16516) - ensure the metre is switched on - and unmetered black-and-white cabs, which tend to be old, rather battered and less reliable. Passengers are expected to know the fare in unmetered cabs rather than negotiate in advance. This can be difficult for new arrivals, so ask the advice of the hotel concierge, or other passengers if you have hailed a shared or unmetered taxi. Some taxi drivers offer guide services too.

Driving: 

Driving in Cairo is a challenge. Visitors determined to try, however, should spend a day or two observing the locals with their myriad hand gestures, horn honks and aggressive posturing, before getting behind the wheel. Rush hour lasts all day and most of the evening too. Road markings are ignored, as are most traffic lights. At night, few drivers use headlights, except to flash which get out of the way, rather than give way. Most visitors stick to taxis for good reason.

Car hire: 

The minimum age for hiring a car in Egypt is 25 years and an International Driving Permit is required. Most major hotels have agents for the leading car hire companies.

Recommended car hire firms include: Avis (tel: (02) 2793 2400 or 2265 2429; www.avis.com); Budget, (tel: 012 2355 290 or 2265 2395; www.budget.com); Hertz, 195 Sharia 26th July Street, Agouza (tel: (02) 3347 3172 or 2265 2430; www.hertz.com) and Sixt (tel: (02) 2703 1018) or 01290 86655; www.e-sixt.com).

Bicycle hire: 

Although many Egyptians cycle, it would be madness for any visitor not used to Cairo traffic to consider doing the same.

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