Things to see in Cairo

This charming, traffic-free street is a highlight of Islamic Cairo, especially at night when the monuments are spot-lit. In medieval times, Bayn al-Qasryn was Cairo’s main public square; today it is lined with three Mamluk palace complexes.

The finest, the Madrassa (theological school) and Mausoleum of Qalaun, is also the earliest, were completed in 1279. The mausoleum is stunningly decorated with an elaborate stucco arch bearing stars and floral motifs, ornate coffered ceilings and stained glass. The 14th century Mausoleum of an-Nasir Mohammed and the Madrassa and Khanqah (monastery) of Sultan Barquq also boast fine architecture and decoration. You will doubtless be offered the chance to visit the minaret for fabulous views; donation appreciated.

It might seem squeamish to visit the City of the Dead, but it’s a fascinating sight. Dozens of ‘tomb squatters' have made it their home and other Cairenes come to visit and picnic at the graves of their relatives, an ancient tradition.

This huge necropolis is divided into the northern and southern cemetery on either side of the Citadel and contains some outstanding Islamic architecture. The finest monuments are in the northern cemetery. The Mosque of Qaitbey, a Mamluk ruler, has an intricately carved dome, the finest in the Muslim world, while the splendidly decorated interior surrounds a peaceful courtyard. Visitors are advised to stick to the main streets in daylight hours, and not to visit alone.

With more than 120,000 artefacts spanning Egyptian history from the earliest dynasties to the Roman era, the museum represents the world’s largest collection of its kind. Take around three to four hours to see the highlights, and another half day if possible.

Don’t miss the Tutankhamun Galleries, displaying the famous gold and gem-inlaid funerary mask and 1,700 other treasures found in the boy king’s tomb. The Royal Mummy Room houses the corpses of 11 of Egypt's pharaohs including Seti I and his son Ramses II. Away from the crowds, enjoy the relative serenity of the Giza and Saqqara rooms, filled with imposing statues and death masks.

Nothing remains of Salah ad-Din's original 12th-century palace but the mosques and palaces atop this limestone outcrop reflect 700 years of Cairo history. The fortifications were first built to repel the Crusaders and became the royal residence for sultans well into the 19th century. The Mohammed Ali Mosque, with its huge central dome and four semi-domes, towers over the city. The enclosure also contains the Mosque of al-Nasir, Yusuf's Well and several small museums. The views over Cairo from the Citadel are outstanding.

Reopened in 2010 after a seven-year closure for vital refurbishment, this museum houses one of the world's finest collections of Islamic art, dating from the seventh to the 19th centuries. The rooms contain carved woodwork and columns, mosaic fountains, metalwork and other architectural exhibits salvaged from crumbling mosques and mausoleums throughout Egypt.