The public transport system within Bangkok is plentiful and cheap, although most visitors use the taxis or the three-wheeled tuk tuks (see below). An elevated monorail, called the Bangkok Transit System (tel: (02) 617 6000; website: www.bts.co.th) but known as the Skytrain, operates on two lines across the city. The Sukhumvit Line runs from On Nut along Sukhumvit Road to Siam Square, Phaya Thai Road, Victory Monument and Mo Chit. The Silom Line starts at Saphan Taksin and runs through Silom's business area, Siam Square, ending at the National Stadium. Since opening, the efficient Skytrain has vastly improved the time it takes to move around the city. The government has approved extension of the lines across the river and to the south, but there is no news on an opening date yet. Trains operate frequently 0600-0000. Tickets should be purchased from automatic ticket machines. Passes can be bought for 20, 30 and 40 journeys, to be used within 30 days. A one-day pass is available for unlimited trips.

The Bangkok Metro (tel: (02) 354 2000 or 624 5200; website: www.bangkokmetro.co.th), opened in 2004, covers parts of the city not served by the Skytrain. Its one route starts at Hualampong station and finishes at Bang Sue in the north of the city. There are 18 stations in total with three intersecting with the Skytrain. The service operates 0600-0000. Tokens should be purchased from automatic ticket machines; fares depend on the distance travelled. Passes can be bought for one day and three days.

The Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (tel: (02) 246 0973; website: www.bmta.co.th) runs a comprehensive and highly complex bus system, which operates across the city 0500-2300. Fares depend on the distance travelled and the type of bus. The yellow and orange Euro II air-conditioned buses use fuel-efficient engines to attempt to reduce air pollution in the city. Microbuses have guaranteed seats. There is also a limited night service (cream and red buses). Bus route maps are widely available in hotels and bookshops.

Taxis can be hailed on the streets. If they are metered taxis, they will have a taxi meter sign on the roof. Visitors should check that the meter is turned on. If stuck in heavy traffic, the meter will start increasing by the minute. There is a minimum charge for the first couple of kilometres. There are also unmetered taxis where the fare must be agreed upon in advance. Passengers always have to pay for any road tolls incurred and should ensure they have plenty of small change to pay the taxi fare. Many people arrange a taxi through the concierge at their hotel where the rate is fixed and paid to the hotel before departure. It is also possible to hire a taxi for longer trips. In these cases, a fare should always be agreed in advance, even with metered taxis. Tipping is not expected but much appreciated.

Tuk tuk
These three-wheeled taxis ply the streets and are ideal for short journeys. Fares must be negotiated before getting in and depend on the distance travelled. The number of tuk tuks in the city is decreasing but they can still be found around hotels and visitor attractions.

River taxis
Numerous river taxis, operated by Chao Phraya Express Boat (tel: (02) 623 6143; website: www.chaophrayaboat.co.th), travel upstream and downstream on the Chao Phraya River, acting more like buses than taxis. Some special express boats operate only during the morning and evening rush hours with limited stops. The destinations/stops are indicated by different coloured flags. Other smaller boats shuttle from one side of the river to the other. A service operates from Sathorn Pier near the Saphan Taksin Skytrain station to 10 piers near major attractions and ends at Phra Arthit Pier. The service operates daily 0930-1600, with departures every 30 minutes, and a one-day unlimited pass costs B120.

Motorcycle taxis
As a result of the gridlock experienced during the rush hour, motorcycle taxis are now popular as they can manoeuvre between the cars to reach their destination more quickly. It is compulsory for passengers to wear helmets, which are supplied by the driver. Drivers wear coloured tabards for identification and wait at road intersections.

Driving in Bangkok requires a great deal of patience and a certain stubbornness. Few visitors attempt to hire a car, as good knowledge of the city is required to be able to drive around. The density of the traffic and the number of lanes mean that drivers always need to know which lane to be in. There are a number of expressways crossing the city with clearly signposted exits but traffic is often gridlocked during rush hour (0700-0900 and 1600-1800). Traffic direction and entry/exit locations change during the day without warning. Bangkok drivers, in particular taxis, buses and motorbikes, are very aggressive and unlikely to give way.

For those who do risk driving, many of the large shopping complexes and hotels have a car park attached and a convenient location is the Siam Centre on Rama I Road, which is open 24 hours.

Many visitors to Thailand now choose to hire a car, although few hire one within Bangkok because of the difficulties of moving through the constantly heavy traffic. Car hire companies vary but drivers must be at least 21 or 23 years old and have held a driving licence for one to two years. A national licence is required. It is compulsory to purchase Collision Damage Waiver and Theft Protection and these are generally included in the hire price. Payment must be made by credit card. Avis have an office at 2/12-13 Wireless Road (tel: (02) 255 5300; website: www.avisthailand.com), and Budget at 19-23 Building A, Royal City Avenue, New Petchburi Road (tel: (02) 203 9294; website: www.budget.co.th).

On Rattanakosin Island, footpaths have been converted into cycle paths, which pass places such as the Royal Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Bicycles can be hired from Spice Roads (tel: (02) 712 5305; website: www.spiceroads.com). Cash or credit card deposit of THB20,000 is required.