For Romans, as for most Italians, the bella figura (looking good) is not just important, it's essential. People tend to be conservative and conformist in their dress, and people who look out of the ordinary are rare birds. Consequently, Rome's shops are full of, often excellent quality, but chic rather than freaky, clothes, leathers, shoes and bags. In winter, real fur is still de rigeur among the older generations, and even the younger ones usually sport a fur-lined hood.

One of the great things about shopping in Rome is that there are still so many small one-off businesses and family-run shops - it feels like there are less chain stores here than in many other cities, and many shops are devoted to one item, say, gloves, or hats, in a way that feels charmingly old fashioned.  

The smart designer shops, where sales assistants can be snooty and price tags discreetly absent, are concentrated in the network of streets spanning out from the Spanish Steps. Of these, Via Condotti has most of the big names: Gucci, Max Mara, Valentino, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Salvatore Ferragamo and Giorgio Armani.

Bulgari, number 10, displays glitteringly expensive watches and equally costly jewellery. Nearby in Piazza di Spagna, Dolce & Gabbana offers slightly more entertaining but equally pricey gear. Fendi has taken over the whole of 19th-century Palazzo Boncompagni Ludovisi on Largo Goldoni and filled it with travertine marble and an endless array of furs, shoes, bags and its ready-to-wear collection. Other big names here are Gianni Versace, Moschino, Tod's, Gianfranco Ferré, and locally born and bred ‘Queen of Cashmere' Laura Biagiotti.

In the same area, TAD, Via Babuino 155A, is a small conceptual department store that will answer your every niche style need, from furniture to flowers and clothing to music. There is also a hairdresser's and a cafe. 

Via dei Governo Vecchio, leading from Piazza Navona, is full of small boutiques selling lesser known designers and vintage clothes and jewellery, while for more bijou boutiques try the Monti district, in particular Via del Boschetto and Via dei Serpenti.

Just off Campo de' Fiori, Via dei Giubbonari teems with hip shops and a range of accessible labels (check out colourful Roman designer Angelo di Nepi here). You can find affordable buys in the high-street shops lining Via del Corso, Via del Tritone, Via Nazionale and Via Cola di Rienzo. Alternatively, you can sharpen your elbows and snap up bargains in the January and July sales or at one of the two large and garish outlets a short drive outside Rome - Castel Romano Outlet and Fashion District Valmontone.

For art and antiques, head to Via Margutta, Via del Babuino, Via Giulia, Via dei Banchi Vecchi and Via de' Coronari (the pedestrian street organises fairs in May and October when its stores are open late). Bric-a-brac and cheap clothes and goods are on offer at the popular flea markets, the best being Via Sannio near San Giovanni (Monday to Saturday 0730-1400) and Porta Portese in Trastevere (Sunday 0700-1300).

There are supermarkets and shopping malls in Rome, including one of the oldest in the city, the 100-shop Centro Commerciale Cinecittà Due, Viale Palmiro Togliatti 2. However, the preferred Roman shopping style is to visit the numerous local fruit and vegetable markets (Monday to Saturday 0700-1300) and to dip in and out of delicatessens. Things are slowly changing however, with supermarkets increasingly (and unfortunately) making their presence felt.
  
Luxury goods to take home include assorted vinegar, truffles and olive oil. Castroni, Via Cola di Rienzo 196, sells the culinary riches from Italy's regions and comforting imports from around the world (including baked beans). The well-established Trimani, Via Goito 20, was founded in 1821 and stocks an excellent selection of Italian wines.

Smaller shops often close for lunch (1300-1630). Larger stores, department stores and shops in touristy areas tend to stay open all day (0900/1000-1930) and open with reduced hours on Sunday. Opening times can be confusing, with many food shops closed on Thursday afternoon (in winter) and other shops not opening until the afternoon on Monday. Summer brings later opening hours (until 2000) but also Saturday afternoon closing for small, family-owned shops and complete closure for at least a fortnight in July, August or September.

Value-added tax (IVA) is 20% on clothing and luxury goods. Foreign tourists from non-EU countries can claim a tax refund, provided they spend at least €155 at the same shop on the same day. Those who are eligible should ask the shop assistant for a receipt (with a description of the articles purchased) and a ‘tax-free cheque'. Upon departure from the EU (no later than 90 days after the date of purchase), these should be presented to customs. Global Refund (www.globalrefund.com) can provide more information.