To avoid steep hills and aching feet, the city's transport authority, San Francisco Municipal Transportation Agency - Muni (tel: 311, within San Francisco or (415) 710 2311; website: www.sfmta.com) operates trolley cars, buses, streetcars, cable cars and a light rail system, for a 24-hour service to all areas of the city. Routes, schedules, maps, ticket and traffic information are available online. Also try the Bay Area Travel Info line (tel: 511; website: www.511.org).

San Francisco has many different types of above-ground vehicles covering the same routes. Buses, trolleys (with wire cable) and streetcars all cover the same routes and command the same fare. These operate citywide, with the name, destination and line number displayed on the front of the bus. Pole signs and curb and street markings designate stops. Tickets are available upon boarding and exact change is required. Historic streetcars run similar routes, every six to 15 minutes. The cars come from as far away as Italy and date back to 1928, with US$14 million spent on restoring and maintaining them. Tickets are available upon boarding.

Cable cars run on three routes (see Key Attractions) and provide some of the best views in the city. Passengers can buy tickets on board (exact change is required) or from kiosks located at the cable car turnarounds. One-day cable car passes are available, although the Muni Passport (see below) is a better deal if you plan to ride other Muni vehicles. Expect higher prices than regular public transport.

Muni light rail travels along Market Street to the Mission District and Noe Valley (J line), the Ingleside district (K line), the Sunset District (L, M, and N lines), and the Castro, Embarcadero and Fisherman's Wharf (F line). Transfers are issued and are good for bus-to-rail or rail-to-bus connections within 90 minutes.

The Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) system (tel: (415) 989 2278; website: www.bart.gov) operates San Francisco's subway, which runs along Market Street stopping at The Embarcadero, Montgomery, Powell and Civic Centre, and links San Francisco with East Bay and Daly City. It operates from early morning (exact hours of service depend on the line: some Muni lines begin at 0430 on weekdays; others at 0730, others claim to be 24 hours) until 2400. Tickets are available from machines located in the stations.

Muni Passports are available for one day, three days or seven days and allow unlimited travel on Muni services. These passes are sold at a number of venues, including the ticket booth at the cable car turnaround at Powell Street and Market Street, as well as the Visitor Information Centre, lower level, Hallidie Plaza, Powell Street and Market Street. A comprehensive map of all Muni routes is available from local bookstores, newspaper stands and corner shops.

Ferries depart from the Ferry Building, The Embarcadero, located at the east end of Market Street - once the world's second busiest passenger terminal, handling 100,000 daily ferry commuters. Regular crossings go to and from Bay communities. Sausalito and Larkspur are served by the Golden Gate Ferry (tel: (415) 455 2000; website: www.goldengateferry.org), which leaves from the south wing of the Ferry Building and makes frequent crossings, taking 30 to 45 minutes. Tickets are sold on board and near the boarding gate. Blue and Gold Fleet (tel: (415) 705 8200; website: www.blueandgoldfleet.com), Red and White Fleet (tel: (415) 673 2900; website: www.redandwhite.com) and Baylink (tel: (707) 643 3779; website: www.baylinkferry.com) run daily services from the Ferry Building (weekdays only for Tiburon) and Pier 41, Fisherman's Wharf, serving Oakland, Alameda, Vallejo, Tiburon and Sausalito.

Taxis are plentiful and, despite reports to the contrary, hailing them is not difficult, although the wise passenger will book in advance. Tipping is customary, almost obligatory, and drivers expect about 15%. Yellow Cab Cooperative Inc (tel: (415) 626 2345) and Veterans National & United Taxicab Company (tel: (415) 552 1300) are both reputable providers.

While arriving in San Francisco by car is a delight, driving around this city is not. Hills and cable cars, which have right of way, do not help. Parking is at a premium, car parks are expensive and the unwitting tourist can easily fall prey to a hefty fine. Regulations can be confusing and are aggressively enforced - pedestrians at a crossing always have the right of way and coloured curbs indicate restricted parking. It is important to note that, when parking on a hill, the driver must curb the wheels to prevent a runaway and ensure that the handbrake is on. Wheels should be turned out facing uphill.

The Fifth and Mission Parking Garage (tel: (415) 982 8522; website: www.fifthandmission.com), located where Fifth Street and Mission Street meet, is the biggest in the city. Other car parks include Union Square Garage (tel: (415) 397 0631; website: www.unionsquareshop.com) and the Ellis-O'Farrell Garage (tel: (415) 986 4800; website: www.eofgarage.com), located where these two streets meet. The cheapest parking lots charge around US$2.50 per hour and are, of course, the first to fill up.

The best reason for hiring a car is to explore the magnificent coastal road, Highway 1, or for longer journeys, further afield. Most car hire companies offer deals that include insurance and unlimited mileage but drivers should be at least 21 years of age - some specify 25 years. A valid driving licence is required, while a second form of identification and booking ahead is advised. Alamo (tel: 1 800 462 5266; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (415) 929 2555 or 1 800 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (415) 433 3717 or 1 800 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: 1 800 800 3665; website: www.dollar.com) or Thrifty (tel: (415) 788 8111 or 1 800 847 4389; website: www.thrifty.com) offer competitive rates.

For those visitors who believe they can take on the hills, The Bike Hut at Pier 40 (tel: 415 543 4335; website: www.thebikehut.com) hires out mountain and street bikes. The more adventurous may want to sit astride a Harley. Eaglerider Motorcycle Rental (tel: 1 888 900 9901 or (415) 503 1900; website: www.eaglerider.com) can turn mere citizens into easyriders. Prices include helmets, basic liability insurance and unlimited mileage. Drivers must be at least 21 years old and hold a motorcycle driving licence.