Santiago's transport system has been plagued by problems recently. Transantiago, an ambitious plan to overhaul the city's public transport infrastructure, has proved woefully inadequate and officials are desperately trying to repair the damage done to commuter relations. Strikes and complaints have been commonplace since Transantiago began in 2005. The modern Metro system, Metro de Santiago (tel: (02) 250 32 34; website: www.metrosantiago.cl), is still the easiest way to travel around Santiago, although even this once slick and efficient network has seen its fair share of problems. Poor bus route planning has occasionally led to severe over-crowding on the underground system, especially at peak times. While the problems seem to be on the mend, Santiago's transport infrastructure is likely to be prone to the same issues for the short-term - especially during rush hour and in the first few weeks of March when the schools go back. The Metro system has five lines which operate daily, closing overnight. Regular travellers can buy a Tarjeta Bip! travel card at ticket offices, which allows cheaper travel on both buses and the Metro.

Santiago's city buses are run by private companies. The system has changed under the new Transantiago transport scheme. The old yellow fume-belchers no longer rule the streets; those on the major ‘trunk' routes have now been painted white with green stripes, while other buses have different colours according to the zones they serve (there are nine outside the city centre). Gradually authorities have tried to instil more order, clamping down on the blatant competition. However, work still needs to be done to fine-tune the bus routes and ensure an adequate level of service. A Tarjeta Bip! travel card (see above) can be used on the city's bus network.

There is no shortage of taxis, which are black with yellow roofs. Taxi drivers are generally honest but occasionally take foreigners to their destinations via very indirect routes, as a means of bumping up the fare. Taxis should have meters, although the occasional dodgy, fast-moving meter is not unheard of either. Find out what your fare should be before you travel. Women travelling alone at night should exercise caution. Radio Taxi Andes-Pacifico (tel: (02) 204 0530; website: www.andespacifico.cl) is a reliable, long-established minicab firm.

Driving in Santiago is a headache, with congestion to rival any European or North American metropolis - although most Chilean drivers are reasonably courteous. Attempts to combat pollution have included imposing limits on the use of cars that run on leaded petrol. Some areas impose traffic restrictions by barring entry to cars with certain registration numbers on certain days.

Many of the more upmarket hotels have a guest car park. Parking in the downtown area is difficult but there are two car parks close to Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins (Alameda). These are at Calle San Francisco 75 (tel: (02) 632 4024) and outside Calle Santa Rosa 76 (tel: (02) 460 8555). There are also underground estacionamientos along Avenida Providencia, situated beside Metro stations. Alternatively, many urban streets offer metered parking.

Most car hire companies require the driver to be 25 years or over. Drivers must hold a current driving licence from their country of origin (International Driving Permit is not usually essential but can be helpful), and must show a passport and leave an imprint of a credit card as a deposit. Insurance is usually additional to the car rate and is recommended.

Providers include Chilean Rent A Car (tel: (02) 737 9650; website: www.chileanrentacar.cl), Avis (tel: 600 368 2000, in Chile only; website: www.avischile.cl) and Rosselot  (tel: (02) 381 2200; website: www.rosselot.cl).

Cycling is becoming a lot easier in central Santiago. With the pollution and transport problems of recent years, using two wheels is a more attractive option than it used to be. That said, you do need to be careful about the route you take - dodging buses on the Alameda is not an experience many will enjoy. Nowadays, many of the city's parks have cycle lanes, there is a lovely riverside route and there is good mountain biking along the winding lanes of Cerro San Cristobál. Mountain bikes can be hired from LYS Rent-a-Car, Calle Miraflores 537 (tel: (02) 633 7600; website: www.lys.cl).