City buses are classified by one of four colours: blue, green, red or yellow and many have bilingual signs. Blue and red buses are the speediest but yellow buses are the most useful for foreigners, travelling a loop around downtown Seoul calling at main rail stations, tourist and shopping areas. Check bus routes on http://bus.congnamul.com. Most buses run until 2300, and some until 0200.

The Seoul Subway (Lines 1-4 Seoul Metro, tel: (02) 1577 1234; website: www.seoulmetro.co.kr / Lines 5-8 Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corporation, tel: (02) 6311 2200; website: www.smrt.co.kr) is one of the fastest in the world and connects with buses. Trains are clean, frequent and punctual and its eight colour-coded lines (and 400 stops) have signs and announcements in English. Trains run from 0600-2330 every two-six minutes in rush hour (0700-0900 and 1600-1900) and five-12 minutes at all other times. A 30-day Metro Pass is available.

The rechargeable T-money Card (tel: (02) 735 8688), available from convenience stores and subway ticket counters, can be used to pay for public transport and, in the future, even taxis. A one-to-three day Seoul City Pass allows for 20 trips a day on bus and subway and unlimited journeys on the Seoul City Tour Bus and also acts as a discount card on tourist attractions.

There are four types of taxi in Seoul: regular taxis, deluxe taxis, high-tech brand taxis and luggage friendly eight-seater jumbo taxis, some with a ‘free interpretation' online service. Deluxe taxis (tel: (02) 3431 5100) are black and yellow and offer a high level of service. Brand taxis include Kind Call Taxi (tel: (02) 1588 3382), KT Powertel (tel: (02) 1588 0082) and Jumbo Taxis (tel: (02) 888 2000).

To hire a car foreigners need to be over 21 years, with a year's experience and an International Driving Permit. Roads are well paved, traffic lights functional, and most drivers comply with basic traffic laws in Seoul. Kumho Rent-A-Car (tel: (02) 797 8000; website: www.kumhorent.com), affiliated to Hertz, is the largest hire car provider in the country. Other car hire agencies include Avis (tel: (02) 862 2847; website: www.avis.co.kr), Car for You (tel: (02) 532 7333; website: www.carforyou.co.kr) and Kumsung rent a car (tel: (02) 602 9045; website: www.ksrent.co.kr).

Cycle paths have been introduced along the canals and rivers running through Seoul, taking cyclists into the city centre and there are also bike trails in the easily reached surrounding hills and mountains. Bicycle hire is available from Filthy Bikes (website: www.mtbk-adventure.com).