The public buses are rarely used by foreign visitors without a good understanding of Mandarin Chinese. Travel by metro or taxi is by far the easier option. Shanghai Municipal Public Transportation Administration operates a cheap and comprehensive system.

City buses (tel: (21) 1608 8160) run 0500-2300 and can get very crowded during rush hours (0630-0830 and 1700-1900). Fares are paid to the conductor. Major city-centre routes are numbered - suburban and long-distance buses only have their destination in characters.

Shanghai metro (operating 0500-2300) is clean, efficient, and easy to navigate. Stations have a red sign resembling an ‘M'. Tickets are available from machines and ticket offices near the entrance. Prices vary depending on the number of stops. Integrated metro, bus, ferry and taxi travel cards are also available if you think your Mandarin is up to asking for one. Signs and station announcements in trains are in Mandarin Chinese and English. Eight lines are running to date, with extra lines and extensions on the agenda for Shanghai's World Expo in 2010. The Number 1 Line operates north-southwest from Gongfu Xincun (passing through Shanghai Railway Station and People's Square) to the southwestern suburb of Xinzhuang. The Number 2 Line runs east-west from Zhangjiang Hi-Tech Park in Pudong to Songhong Lu. The Pearl Line (3) runs a curious-shaped route from north-south from Jiangwan Zhen in the north to Shanghai South Station. The Circle Line (4) passes through Pudong, eastern and western suburbs and the city's northern districts. Line 5, the Light Rail southern extension of Line 1, runs from Xin Zhuang to Min Hang Development Zone. Also Light Rail, Line 6 runs from Wai Gao Qiao in the north to San Lin City in the south. Line 8 runs from New Jiangwan City in the north to Zhongshan South Rd via People's Square. Line 9 runs from Yi Shan Road to Song Jiang Xin Cheng. Line 7 is still under construction.

Despite the alarming metal cages around the drivers, Shanghai taxis are actually reliable, plentiful, cheap and safe. A variety of fleet companies operate Shanghai taxis, which are almost uniformly locally manufactured Volkswagens. All taxis are metered. Maps and addresses written in Chinese characters are essential tools for foreigners, as taxi drivers rarely speak any English.

Taxis can be pre-booked from some of the major fleets, including Friendship Taxi (tel: (21) 6258 4584) or Shanghai Eastern taxi Service (tel: (21) 5481 1630; www.shanghai-taxi.com), which has English-speaking drivers and an airport pick-up service.

The efficiency of Shanghai's public transport combined with the prevalence of taxis and the difficulties of obtaining a local licence means there is little sense in hiring a vehicle without very good reason. Bicycles are common and many accidents involve them - drivers are advised to remember this.

If a car of your own is essential, hiring a driver is recommended, given the dense traffic, the Chinese road signs and the general chaos involved. If you still want to hire and drive your own vehicle, an International Driving Permit, air ticket, passport and a credit card to cover the large deposit are required. Regulation now allows non-nationals to drive a car with a temporary licence valid for 3 months or a six-year licence if they have a residency permit. Avis has a joint venture with Anji Car Rental & Leasing, (tel: (21) 6229 1119; www.avischina.com). Also try Shanghai Rising Car Rental (tel: (21) 5447 8361; www.risingsh.com/en/).

Shanghai has bicycle lanes on all but the biggest roads. But due to the sheer number of cyclists, low-speed collisions with other cyclists are relatively common so it is highly recommended to wear a helmet and respect all traffic lights. Bikes are available for rent from some backpacker hostels in Shanghai.