For a Half Day

Boyana Church and the National History Museum: Boyana Church (tel: (02) 959 0939/2963; website: www.boyanachurch.org) lies 8km (5 miles) southwest of Sofia, accessible by bus 64 from bulvard Gotze Delchev, plus minibuses 21 and 40. One of Bulgaria's most cherished treasures, this tiny medieval church was closed to the public for 38 years while it underwent restoration work, finally reopening in 2000. It is best known for its exquisite 13th-century frescoes, depicting scenes from the Bible and the lives of the saints. These are renowned for their realism and considered among the best examples of the Bulgaria's medieval art. Boyana is one of nine Bulgarian cultural monuments included on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. The church is open daily 0900-1700 and admission is restricted to 10 minutes in the company of a guide.

Close by, the National History Museum (tel: (02) 955 4280; website: www.historymuseum.org), relocated to the opulent ex-party headquarters, Boyana Residence, traces the development of Bulgaria's cultural, social and political life from prehistoric times up to WWII. Of special interest are the stunning Thracian gold, silver and bronze treasures. Exhibits are labelled in Cyrillic only, although English-speaking guides are available. The museum is open daily 0900-1730 (winter); 0930-1800 (summer). English-language guides are available.

For a Whole Day

Rila Monastery and Rila National Park: Located about 120km (75 miles) south of Sofia, the Rila Monastery is one of the most significant cultural monuments in Bulgaria, set dramatically within the beautiful alpine mountains of Rila National Park and included on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. The first monastery was founded here by followers of the Bulgarian hermit, St John of Rila, in the 10th century. It became a centre for artisans during the Renaissance. Throughout the five centuries of Ottoman domination, monastic life continued at Rila, thanks to its extreme isolation and heavily fortified defensive walls. Due to extensive fire damage, most of the buildings date from the 19th century, although one 10th-century tower remains. Within the complex, the outer walls of the central church are richly decorated with colourful scenes from the Bible, typical of the National Revival period, with particularly well detailed accounts of the torments of sinners in hell. Once there were reputed to have been more than 1,000 monks. Today, there are less than a dozen. Donations for the monastery's upkeep are very much needed and gratefully received. There is a separate museum on the premises, containing the remnants of the monastery's riches. There are also craft stalls within the complex and more outside its walls, at the back, along with a restaurant and snack shop. The monastery makes an ideal starting point for hiking in Rila National Park, where clearly marked mountain paths take walkers through dense pine forests. Trekkers or enthusiastic visitors can stay overnight at the monastery, accommodated in a sparse ‘cell'. The monastery is open daily 0800-1800. A bus to Dupnitza village leaves every day at 0800, from the central bus station in Sofia. Connecting buses to Rila village depart at 1000 and 1100, departing from Rila village for the monastery at 1240. A bus departs from Rila Monastery for Dupnitza at 1715, while the bus from Dupnitza to Sofia departs at 1920. There are also organised tours run by Sofia travel agents and large hotels.

Mount Vitosha: Packed at weekends with Sofia-dwellers, the highest ski resort in Bulgaria at Vitosha (website: www.bulgariaski.com), 1,800m (5,905ft) above sea level, is perfect for skiing in winter and trekking in summer. The region is also famous for its rock formations, especially the moreni, or stone rivers, at Zlatnite Mostove (the Golden Bridges). Although not possessing the infrastructure of the main ski resorts in the country, with few well-maintained hotels and restaurants, nonetheless this makes a popular excursion - stick to weekdays if you want to avoid the crowds. The ski runs are of various lengths and difficulties, with chair and drag lifts and a gondola lift. Vitosha is easy to get to by public transport.