Despite previous economic hardship and high unemployment, Sofians love to go out and party. Day and night, the countless bars and cafes throughout the city are heaving - a phenomenon that never fails to amaze foreign visitors. Unfortunately, the public transport system completely shuts down from 0100 to 0500. However, a number of restaurants and cafes operate 24 hours, including Art Club Museum, ulitsa Saborna 2, Divarka, ulitsa 6-ti Septemvri 41A and ulitsa Gladston 54, and bright, brash Happy Bar and Grill, ploshtad Sveti Nedelya 4.

The biggest concentration of bars and cafes lies to either side of Vitosha bulevard, and the increasingly hip ulitsa Rakovski, with cafe-restaurants like Opera, ulitsa Rakovski 113. Irish pubs have hit Bulgaria and, as always, pull a mixed clientele of locals and expats. Bars are busy until midnight, after which people move on to nightclubs, which are fairly dispersed throughout town. Heavily frowned upon during Communist times, homosexuality is now considered quite cool and there are a number of gay clubs including Sax, bulvard Vasil Levski 67, and Vital, ulitsa Alabin 5.

Outside the city centre, the southern suburb of Studenski grad by the university is packed with bars, clubs and restaurants for those who love partying 24-hour student-style. Get there on bus 280 from ulitsa Shipka, and the taxi back is reasonable.

It is possible to buy alcohol all day and night, for over 18s only. Most bars and cafes stay open until midnight. Locally produced wine and rakiya (local brandy) are excellent and reasonably priced, and good local beers include Zagorka and Kamenitza. Cigarettes are cheap (tobacco is one of Bulgaria's main exports), so don't expect smoke-free bars. Sofians are open-minded when it comes to dress, although some clubs only allow admission once 'no neck' bouncers have checked you out.

For good up-to-date nightlife information, check the English-language weekly Sofia Echo (website: www.sofiaecho.com), the quarterly Sofia In Your Pocket, the booklet Programata (website: www.programata.bg) or the monthly Sofia City Info Guide. Or try www.gay.bg as a good guide to gay venues.

Bars: Much of the city's more stylish nightlife is in lounge bars with leather sofas although shabbier cafes, especially around the shopping streets, have the cheapest booze. An informal place to meet friends, By the Way, ulitsa Rikovski 166, has good cocktails and food, and Motto, ulitsa Aksakov 18, attracts the beautiful people with designer decor and comfy sofas. Living Room, bulvard Yanko Sakuzov 1, has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the lush Oborishte Park. For an alfresco cold beer (and people watching) the huge cafe-bar with no name on the pedestrianised ulitsa Pirotska off bulvard Maria Louisa, is busy on warm evenings.

Clubs: Sofia's clubs play music ranging from techno to jazz and rock to salsa, with chalga, a curious mix of Turkish pop and gypsy dance often referred to as pop-folk, always popular. Sin City, bulvard Hristo Botev 61, is a huge venue, reputedly one of the chicest clubs in the Balkans, with pop-folk and house in its different halls. Gramofon, ulitsa Budapeshta 6, also plays chalga. Alcohol, ulitsa Rakovski 127, gets everyone on the dancefloor and also has a chill-out room to cool down. The award-winning Chervilo, bulvard Tsar Osvoboditel 9, has several resident DJs playing house music, and Yalta, down the road at Tsar Osvoboditel 20, has international DJs. Cabaret, ulitsa Hristo Belchev 12 (downstairs from Before and After), houses an old-time atmosphere in an art nouveau building, with retro, Latino/Turkish and mixed dance nights.

Live Music: There are several venues with live performers of local music, like Swingin' Hall, bulvard Dragan Tzankov 8, featuring live jazz, rock and pop, with local and foreign performers. Toucan Bluzz and Rock, ulitsa Rakovski 112, has decent live jazz, and Back Stage, bulvard Vasil Levski 100, offers a range of live music every night. For a true Balkan experience, spend the evening at a restaurant featuring live Bulgarian folk music. Recommended venues include Vodenitzata, set in an old mill in the Dragalevtzi district close to the chairlift, Vitosha, bulvard Vitosha 33, and Chevermeto, bulvard Maria Louisa 106.