Paldiski: 80km (50 miles) outside Tallinn is a once mighty Soviet naval base (the last Soviet forces left in 1994). Today a ramble of ruins and leftovers offer the chance to peek behind the old Iron Curtain. Taking a bike or car is recommended as the various things to see, such as Peter's Fortress, the Pakri lighthouse, the naval graveyard and the old submarine training base, are quite spread out.

Kadriorg Palace: Commissioned by Peter the Great in honour of his wife, Catherine, this elegant baroque palace is the highlight of sights outside the Old Town. Also home to the Kadriorg Art Museum, Weizenbergi 37 (tel: 606 6400; website: www.ekm.ee), and an expanse of beautifully laid-out gardens.