Bizarrely, the Tartan Army (the football fans who faithfully follow the Scottish national side) are credited with kick-starting the city's nightlife in the 1990s after decades of Soviet dreariness. The two bars they set up after a football match in Tallinn, the Nimeta, Suur-Karja 4, and the Nimega, Suur-Karja 13, are still going strong and are a good place to meet locals practising their English. Overlooking Town Hall Square, Molly Malone's, Mundi 2, is a better-than-average Irish theme pub with a sunny terrace. With stag parties increasingly invading all of the above, the local trendies have moved onto chic lounge-style bars such as Kaheksa, Vana-Posti 8, Pegasus, Harju 1, and the Stereo Lounge, Harju 6. For live music, the veteran Guitar Safari, Muurivahe 22, seldom disappoints, while Saku Suurhall, Paldiski mantee 104b (website: www.sakusuurhall.ee) is a massive venue used for major gigs.

Tallinn's club scene is fairly lively. The two-storey Venus Club, Vana-Viru 14 (website: www.venusclub.ee), housed in a historic fire station on the edge of the Old Town, is one of the most popular venues. Club Hollywood, Vana-Posti 8 (website: www.clubhollywood.ee), in the Old Town, with its steady diet of techno, attracts big crowds. Club Privé, Harju 6, is a smaller, more trendy and exclusive dance venue.