Due to Tel Aviv's increasing expansion and traffic congestion, plans are underway to construct an underground transit system. For now, transport around the city is on the bus network operated by the Dan Bus Co-operative (tel: (03) 639 4444; website: www.dan.co.il).

Many different bus routes radiate from the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station to all parts of the city, including Old Jaffa. The bus service is fast, punctual and economical, with over 300 bus stops situated throughout the city. Most buses follow circular itineraries starting and finishing at the Central Bus Station, 108 Levinski Street (tel: (03) 638 4040), with routes throughout the city and surrounding suburbs. The network is extensive, with almost all buses running through Ben Yehuda Street and Dizengoff Street. Buses in the city run daily 0530-2400 (except Shabbat).

An ordinary single-fare ticket in central Tel Aviv is available for purchase on the bus, whether travelling one stop or all the way across town. Few locals buy these as most people have a pass. If you're planning to use public transport ask the bus driver for a cartissiya, a 25-ride ticket for the price of 23 single fares. It's not a big saving but it is convenient and saves looking for small change each time you board a bus. Senior citizen and students (with ID) can buy all bus tickets at a discount.

It is wise to avoid bus travel during the morning and evening rush hours (0700-0800 and 1600-1800) when there are big traffic jams.

During the intifada, public buses and school buses were the favourite target of the Palestinian suicide bombers and some visitors may feel that bus travel is too risky to bother with. Despite the fact that Israeli bus drivers are highly trained to anticipate and deal with danger, this proved inadequate when dealing with the particular threat of suicide attackers. However, since the construction of the security barrier separating Israel from the West Bank, suicide attacks have been brought to an almost complete stop. Buses remain the most popular and economical form of transport. Nowadays, the risk is slight, but the rule is that anyone noticing anyone or anything suspicious (while waiting for a bus, boarding a bus or during a journey) should always walk quickly up to the front of the bus and tell the driver immediately, even if the bus is moving. All bus drivers speak some English, and it is considered sensible and acceptable to express any doubts openly rather than take even the smallest chance.

Taxi fares are controlled by meters based on tariff 1 (0530-2100) and tariff 2 (2100-0530 and Shabbat). Tariff 2 rates are 25% higher than tariff 1. Tipping is not usual and not expected, although a very small gratuity of say 5% is sometimes given. When starting a journey, the driver is legally obliged to activate the meter. Even though this is strictly enforced, a few drivers may claim to offer a better price than would be shown on the meter (the advantage to him is in not having to pay tax on the fare). To avoid being cheated, it is worth asking your hotel receptionist or the tourist office for some idea of what the fare to specific destinations should be.

Taxis can be hailed on the street or by telephone in advance. There are dozens of taxi firms. Reputable companies include Hameshuhrar Ltd (Liberated Taxi Ltd), 94 Allenby Street (tel: (03) 566 1818), and Kastel Radio Taxis Ltd, 18 Bar-Eli Street and many offices around town (tel: (03) 699 3322 or 1296/8; website: www.kastel.co.il).

To distinguish them from sherutim (see below), taxis are colloquially known as ‘special taxis'. The Controller of Road Transport, 8 Hamelacha Street (tel: (03) 5657199), is the governing body for taxis and sherutim, handling all enquiries and complaints.

Sherutim
An alternative to a taxi or bus is the popular sherut (literally ‘service', ie service taxi; the plural in Hebrew is sherutim but visitors should be aware that this word is also used for ‘toilets'). These shared taxis are usually stretched Mercedes or minibuses, seating seven or 12, and they generally follow fixed public bus routes. However, they allow passengers to get on and off anywhere on the journey and may take alternative routes when necessary to dodge heavy traffic. Delays are rare and passengers should board quickly as drivers pull away sharply - both drivers and passengers are very impatient of anyone holding things up. Some sheruts run on Shabbat. Fares are usually about the same as the bus fare.

The extensive, low-cost bus and sherut service, and the close proximity of all the main attractions, means that driving in the city is not really required - thankfully, as it cannot be recommended. Tel Aviv drivers tend to drive fast, be irritable and impatient - and quick to use the horn. In addition, visitors who opt to drive should beware of such time-saving local tactics as driving on the pavement in order to get in front of other vehicles. Experienced drivers should remain calm and cautious when driving through the city.

Street parking is strictly controlled. Tel Aviv has switched to the EasyPark smartcard system (which was invented here). This in-car electronic device (about the size of a pocket calculator) automatically deducts the cost of street parking from the driver's credit or debit card and can be read electronically by parking attendants. Most locals have one of these devices in their car, but it is also possible to buy traditional parking cards. These can be obtained from street kiosks, post offices and gas stations. This is a strip of paper with punched tabs for the hours of the day; drivers tear a tab to designate the month, day and hour they parked. Various different kerbside colour codes indicate what parking is permitted. Blue and white means parking is allowed with pre-paid parking cards, however, visitors should always check the signs as well for the hours of operation and any restrictions. Visitors should not park where there is any other kerbside colour as they all represent restrictions; many streets in Tel Aviv operate ‘residents only' parking schemes. No line probably means free parking, but visitors should always check for the signs, as parking regulations are rigorously enforced.

There are also informal, unregulated pay-to-enter parking lots scattered about in the city, including by the beach south of Opera Tower and on the approach into Jaffa.

Cars can be hired on presentation of a passport and a valid driving licence - drivers must be over 21, although those between the ages of 21 and 23 may be required to pay a slightly higher insurance rate. Car hire agencies also sell the mandatory insurance required in Tel Aviv (see Getting There by Road).

The main Israeli car hire firm is Eldan, 114 Hayarkon Street (tel: (03) 527 1166; website: www.eldan.co.il). It has a user-friendly website accepting secure online payment and offers substantial price discounts for Internet bookings. Other major car hire companies in the city are Avis, 113 Hayarkon Street (tel: (03) 527 1752; website: www.avis.co.il), Budget, Dan Hotel, 99 Hayarkon Street (tel: (03) 524 5233; website: www.budget.co.il), Hertz, Atarim Station, 148 Hayarkon Street (tel: (03) 527 9821; website: www.hertz.com) and Sixt, 122 Hayarkon Street (website: www.e-sixt.com). Most of these companies, and others, have desks in other parts of the city and at Ben Gurion Airport. In addition, most have toll-free booking numbers in the USA.

Bicycles are a great way to tour this flat, warm and dry beachside city. After a campaign by Tel Aviv Bicycle Association (tel: (03) 566 9667; website: http://bike.org.il/taba/index_e.html), the city introduced a number of bike paths and trails. Nevertheless, cyclists are advised to wear a helmet and should be aware of the city's fast, aggressive driving style and severe congestion during rush hour. The Tel Aviv Bicycle Association organises a weekly Friday afternoon group ride in the city and provides information about biking throughout Israel.

Bicycles can be hired from Round Trip, 5 Bograshov Street (tel: (03) 527 5731; website: www.geocities.com/round_trip_il).