Valletta's cultural highlight is the Manoel Theatre, Old Theatre Street (tel: 2122 2618 (information) or 2124 6389 (booking office); website: www.teatrumanoel.com.mt), which has been staging performances, on and off, since 1732. Recently refurbished to its glittering original glory, this little baroque gem is one of Europe's oldest theatres and is well worth a visit by night or day (open for guided tours, museum, cafe and restaurant). It has a wide-ranging repertoire encompassing all the classical performing arts and also stages occasional poetry, jazz, even rock and folk music concerts. Seat prices can be very cheap and each Wednesday a free lunchtime concert is given in one of its side rooms.

The city's other cultural space, the St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity, St James Cavalier, City Gate (tel: 2122 3200; website: www.sjcav.org), is by contrast relentlessly modern, albeit housed in the superbly renovated carcass of a 16th-century fortification built into the city walls. It promotes contemporary performing and visual arts with an emphasis on Maltese artists, though world cinema and classical theatre and music performances are regular events.