The political transformations of 1989 were quickly reflected in the hundreds of new shops that sprang up all over Warsaw. Since then, shops have come and gone with surprising regularity, but there are some that have withstood the test of time. There are also licensed and illegal street vendors that offer wares ranging from cloth napkins, wooden sculptures, cooking pots and freshly picked mushrooms.

The main shopping streets are the restored Ulica Chmielna, elegant Nowy Świat, Ulica Marszalkowska and Aleje Jerozolimskie. Shopping arcades, both in and outside of the city centre, have become very popular, including Galeria Centrum, Ulica Marszalkowska 104/122, the biggest shopping oasis in Warsaw, Arkadia, Aleja Jana Pawla II 82, and the newest of all, Złote Tarasy, Ulica Złota 59. These malls have both national and internationally known brands including H&M, Levi's and Zara, and often house cinemas and restaurants.

Probably the best spot in Warsaw for souvenir hunting is in the Old Town, among the colourful facades and artists' stalls. The Cepelia stores are also worth a visit for Polish handicrafts such as lace, dolls, amber and silver jewellery and leather goods. To pick up some wonderful Boleslawiec pottery, visit the outlet on Ulica Marszałkowska 99/101. Desa Unicum shops specialise in art and antiques and a savvy shopper can pick up some choice pieces here; the most central store is located at Old Town Square 4/6.

With the temporary demise of Europe's largest flea market, known locally as the Russian Market, Warsaw's market scene is a little bare. There are still a few spots worth visiting however, such as Bazat na Kole (ul Obozowa) in the western reaches of the city, which has mountains of junk and antiques to sift through, ranging from CDs to WWII relics. Fingers crossed the local council finds a spot for the Russian Market to reopen soon.

Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 1000/1100-1800/2000 and Saturday 1000-1300/1600. In the past five years, 30 shopping centres and hypermarkets of all the major European chains have opened in Warsaw. Often open seven days a week, these are the best places to stock up on Polish staples - such as pickled herring, preserved meats and, last but not least, vodka.

VAT is applied at rates of 3%, 7% and 22%, depending on the goods or services bought. Tax-free shopping is available to nonresidents of the EU if a minimum of ZL200 is spent in one transaction at participating outlets that will issue Global Refund Cheques. Cash refunds are given out at airports on presentation of the tax free documents (website: www.globalrefund.com).