The four main shopping streets (Via dell'Indipendenza, Via Ugo Bassi, Via Rizzoli and Via D'Azeglio) lead off Piazza Maggiore in crossroad formation. All the big-name Italian designers are found here, as well as a proliferation of antiques and books.

Italy is renowned for its high quality clothing but shops are expensive. Italian sales (July/August and December/January) can throw up some great bargains, when prices are often slashed by up to 70%. Otherwise, leather goods (including jackets, wallets and belts) are a safe bet. A high-class souvenir are the quality handmade leather shoes offered by the legendary Branchini Calzoleria, Strada Maggiore 19, which take up to 40 days to craft and can be shipped worldwide. For the coolest designer clothes hub, stocking hip labels from Amen to Zagliani for men and women, try L'Inde le Palais, Via de' Musei 6.

There is a daily book market in Piazza Maggiore, open in the mornings during the winter months. An antiques market in Piazza Santo Stefano is open during normal shopping hours, every second weekend of the month (excluding January, July and August) and a flea market sets up shop from dawn to dusk, every Friday and Saturday, at the Parco della Montagnola. A collectors' market, Celo' Celo' Mamanca, in the former Jewish ghetto, Via Valdonica and Piazza San Martino, is open every Thursday 0900-1900 (excluding July and August).

For a taste of Bologna, the delectable Mercato delle Erbe, on Via Ugo Bassi, sells fresh fruit and vegetables every morning 0715-1300 and evening 1700-1900, except Sunday, and there's a daily produce market on Via Clavature, east of Piazza Maggiore. Tamburini, Via Caprarie 1, is the place to buy homemade pasta, local hams and cheeses, and there's a sit-down restaurant at the back.

As a rule, shops open Monday to Saturday 0900-1300 and 1530-2000, although larger department stores and supermarkets may stay open throughout the day. Nearly everything is shut during August, on Thursday afternoon and on Sunday. Sales tax varies between 12-14%, depending on the value of the goods purchased. Travellers from outside the EU can claim back sales tax on purchases over €155 (only those from shops displaying the sign 'tax free for tourists' or similar). On leaving the country, customs officials will stamp the official receipt, which should then be presented at the Tax Free Desk at the airport. Global Refund Italia (website: www.globalrefund.com) provides further information.