Bordelais start the evening with a Lillet, the traditional apéritif, a blend of white wine, and an orange and quinine liquor, on the terrace (heated in winter) of Le Régent, 46 place Gambetta. Later they head for the animated streets of the inner city, particularly around the place de la Victoire, place St-Pierre, place du Parlement, place Camille Julian and place Gambetta. Night owls head for the bars and clubs open until the early morning hours around the quai du Paludate.

Bars: The Lucifer, 35 rue de Pessac, serves 250 different beers from all over the world, and has live rock music on Wednesdays. Trendy Bordelais gather at Xing Xing, 20 rue des Pilliers de Tutelle, Quartier St Pierre, drawn by its fluorescent décor, contemporary music and excellent cocktails. The small but very lively cafe Caf'ka, 15 rue Clare, serves coffee and drinks all day, but turns up the dance music at night.

Clubs: Packed with students, the hopping Sénéchal, 57 bis quai de Paludate, has a great 1970s decor. More tropical and exotic are the two dance floors at L'Ane Qui Tousse, 57 rue de Bègles. Le Plana's, at 22 place de la Victoire, turns bar space into a dance floor later at night.

Live Music: The hip L'Absolute Lounge, rue de la Devise (tel: (05) 5648 8000), hosts regular concerts of electro-jazz, and the just-as-lively Casa Latina, 59 quai des Chartrons (tel: (05) 5787 1580), makes you feel as if you're on holiday in Brazil, with live salsa and merengue.